10 ton Harvey deck over

Willie B said: I don't know. In the 1970s my then brother in law found the product. If I recall the gun to spray it was very expensive. He borrowed the gun, did all the family vehicles in one or two days. I don't have the gun. I use a putty knife, body putty spreader, or warm it to liquid & paint it on. Stuff is like bubble gum. My 1971 Jeep was showing its age around 1976. Sprayed that on, it arrested the rust. Jeep took a wild ride down a wild river in 2011, but was road worthy & messy until then. I have heard of a new to market product it's a grease product with solvent. Comes in aerosol cans with a long flexible hose, with omni directional nozzle. You stick it through a drilled hole, pull it out as it sprays. I'll see if I can find it again. In your trailer frame, you'll have to replace the planking again, replace the rusted hollow sections then. Click to expand... Sounds like good stuff. There aren't any hollow sections on this trailer. With the decking off, all metal surfaces are accessible from either the top or bottom side. Obviously that doesn't mean they won't rust out, but it makes maintenance a lot easier.

materthegreater said: Sounds like good stuff. There aren't any hollow sections on this trailer. With the decking off, all metal surfaces are accessible from either the top or bottom side. Obviously that doesn't mean they won't rust out, but it makes maintenance a lot easier. Click to expand... I'd slobber any horizonal surface with some grease. When I decked the 9 ton I sold, I used pressure treated. I coated everything touching pressure treated with compound L. It must be 15 years, no rust.

Stopped by a local saw mill and their wanting to sell me on Poplar, I'm thinking because it's cheap an they have it. They said that's what I have on our trailers. I'm thinking just use treated lumber if I go poplar. Might see if I can get some beach

AllDodge said: Stopped by a local saw mill and their wanting to sell me on Poplar, I'm thinking because it's cheap an they have it. They said that's what I have on our trailers. I'm thinking just use treated lumber if I go poplar. Might see if I can get some beach Click to expand... I wouldn't use Poplar for a trailer floor, it's fairly strong but also soft. Also in my experience it's only rot resistant in vertical applications and where it's never allowed to stay wet, such as siding, fence boards, etc. White Oak is the only native lumber around here I'd use for a trailer floor, very strong and fairly rot resistant.

Yes I have a saw mill and have tried about everything. White oak is the best. Then yellow pine. Yellow pine will last about 2.5 to 4 years if you get boards with little outside grain. Number 1 select. Treat it with oil. Popular is a horrible choice and it ruins quickly. I even tried select red oak boards. Bought expensive sealant and did the bottom of the board and tops. Once the heat from the sun hits the board the grain opens up and it lets in moisture. Red oak rotted out within 2 years and it was not worth the time it takes to cut it and deal with it. I cut all boards a full 2"s thick. You can mix the deck. I will just use 4 nice white oaks boards where the tires hit (2 each side) and fill the centers up with yellow pine. I have 4 white oak boards that have lasted a long time. I oil them every now and then and they still won't take much if any. The grain stays tight even in the sun. Full 2" white oak across the deck also increases your trailer weight. I switch to 1.5" yellow pine for the center boards. To cut back on weight. I have 4 bigger trailers with wood decks. One particular trailer the white oak has not failed been on there years and had lots of abuse. I would drive 100 miles to get it, it's that good.

The Poplar (we have here) would be a very poor choice. Soft, rots, twisted grain. Very weak wood…soaks up water like a sponge.

White Oak is a good choice to avoid the corrosive chemicals in PT yellow pine. I am trying Black Locust I had some milled, haven't yet put them on the trailer. Black Locust is said to last ten years longer than stone. I'd like to sandblast it & paint in the process. Did a cosmetic sandblast & paint several years ago when I bought it. I believe my trailer is 2006 model year the White Oak deck has a hole in center near the head board where it got loaned. otherwise, it looks good but it is getting weak I believe. Don't want to lose a tractor through it.

Guess I can't really complain, my trailer has a mix of pine and white oak. The pine is falling apart and the oak is splitting and curling and the trailer is almost 20 yrs

materthegreater said: Found a steal of a deal on 17.5" wheels for this trailer. Just had to go to Cape Cod to get them. View attachment 348353 Click to expand... Finally got the new wheels and tires installed: They are a little wider than the 16" tires, but still clear everything ok: The only issue I had was with the studs I replaced in post #22. Those studs are a little shorter than the originals, but they were just long enough for the 16" wheels, but the 17.5" wheels are a bit thicker so I had to replace them again. Now they are plenty long.

Looks good and hope the oil level shows with the axle above level;

AllDodge said: Looks good and hope the oil level shows with the axle above level; Click to expand... It was actually a little over full, but I'll keep an eye on it.

materthegreater said: Finally got the new wheels and tires installed: View attachment 358407 They are a little wider than the 16" tires, but still clear everything ok: View attachment 358408 The only issue I had was with the studs I replaced in post #22. Those studs are a little shorter than the originals, but they were just long enough for the 16" wheels, but the 17.5" wheels are a bit thicker so I had to replace them again. View attachment 358411 Now they are plenty long. View attachment 358413 Click to expand... Keep an eye on the tire rub when loaded. I had an Economy triaxle. The linkage of the spring mounts seemed strange to me. Passing over rough terrain you might have a great deal of difference in the height of axles. I couldn't find good quality tires, only ones available in the size were Blue Star from China. I sold it to a guy who planned to haul half as much weight as I did, far less than manufacturers rating. He failed to adjust the pintle ring height, ran it way too low in front. Rubbed the front two tires on every bump. Ruined a pair of tires. Present owner tows it level, 5 ton mini excavator, he's happy with it. I now have a CAM Superliner triaxle 21500 LB, no problems in years.

Lignum Vitae--very hard was used as bearing material with propeller shafts on ships.

Truck Shop said: Lignum Vitae--very hard was used as bearing material with propeller shafts on ships. Click to expand... Harder than these 17.5" tires??

Lignum Vitae--unfortunately is a restricted wood. With a Zanka hardness of 4,390 lbs, very heavy/dense, insect resistant, resistant to the elements, has it's own oil and rot resistant. Unlike other wood sold by the BF, LV is sold by the pound. Hard on cutting tools.

Truck Shop said: Lignum Vitae--unfortunately is a restricted wood. With a Zanka hardness of 4,390 lbs, very heavy/dense, insect resistant, resistant to the elements, has it's own oil and rot resistant. Unlike other wood sold by the BF, LV is sold by the pound. Hard on cutting tools. Click to expand... Socket chisels, froes, and a few other woodworking tools should be struck with a mallet or beetle(like a short club) Lignum Vitae was prized for this duty. It also was/is used for contrasting inlay work.

Dam rust strikes again.

Got a little vibration when braking with that?!

Didn't notice any vibration, but did notice the smell of hot brakes. It was binding going forward but free in reverse. I'm thinking about converting to electric over hydraulic. Does anyone have experience with E/H brakes?

materthegreater said: Didn't notice any vibration, but did notice the smell of hot brakes. It was binding going forward but free in reverse. I'm thinking about converting to electric over hydraulic. Does anyone have experience with E/H brakes? Click to expand... I have electric over hydraulic disc brakes on my Diamond C gooseneck.