CLUTCH stuck Fuller 13 RR after sitting last winter! Need a smarter person than me!

Giv’er is what I say. That’s how we did it in Mason County. No, in Mason County I think we “send it”. Either way, She might break loose. I bet it squeals like a pig once that happens if the pilot bearing theory holds true.

RokMan sounds like my kind of people. PNW gypo logger, maybe a gravel hauler, dangerous and unpredictable. I can respect that. A dying breed. A relic of the past, just like the old-growth of the peninsula.

Pfftt. Who needs a clutch anyway? Start it in low or better yet park on a downgrade so you can roll and put it in gear, float the gears, time your approach to stop signs and red lights to avoid having to stop, pop it in neutral when you arrive... /s Sarcasm over now. I'd try to free it as suggested then get it to a shop to get it taken care of as soon as possible.

Coaldust said: Giv’er is what I say. That’s how we did it in Mason County. No, in Mason County I think we “send it”. Either way, She might break loose. I bet it squeals like a pig once that happens if the pilot bearing theory holds true. Click to expand... Should I have the clutch pedal down and in low or higher gear when I move it with the 980-- while trying to free it up? Forward or reverse?

Coaldust said: RokMan sounds like my kind of people. PNW gypo logger, maybe a gravel hauler, dangerous and unpredictable. I can respect that. A dying breed. A relic of the past, just like the old-growth of the peninsula. Click to expand... The reason why I am dragging my feet on the "Tow it to the service shop and pay big $$ to have it done" bit is , it did this a couple of years ago after sitting for a couple of months and I believe it got unstuck after I bumped the starter over while in gear [just once]. Obviously, it is more stuck this time, but I never had any issues with it in those two years, until now. I just don't think it is pragmatic to spend $5,000 to have the shop "unstick" my seized clutch bearing/ bushing, if I can do it off road on my property---besides, it is a major hassle on top of that $$. And this is why I reach out to you big brained fellas who have been down this road back in the day---when you were 'dangerous and unpredictable'--LOL Does a pilot bearing that is going bad make any odd sounds before it goes bad while the clutch pedal is pushed in or anything?

funwithfuel said: Sounds dangerous and unpredictable. The big takeaway is, the trans and clutch need to come out so you can replace a $50 pilot bearing . Even if you free it up, it can seize again while in motion. Then what? Plow through traffic? I get the need to get it "in service" but the risks are significant. Click to expand... I am not trying to bust your chops, but how certain are you that it is the Pilot bearing? If you are absolutely certain it is, and that it needs to be replaced, then that is what I will have to do, but it would suck bigtime if it was not the Pilot Bearing---100% certain?

Coaldust said: RokMan sounds like my kind of people. PNW gypo logger, maybe a gravel hauler, dangerous and unpredictable. I can respect that. A dying breed. A relic of the past, just like the old-growth of the peninsula. Click to expand... "PNW gypo logger, maybe a gravel hauler, dangerous and unpredictable" For the record, I am not 'dangerous'. I am pragmatic. I am methodical. I do things with control and I don't like to lose control---that would be reckless and put other peoples safety at risk. Every dollar I had available has gone into this truck, not to pimp it out with **** to make it look cool and serves no useful advantage, but to make the truck mechanically sound and safe. I just spent 5 grand on 10 new virgin 24.5's. The truck does not look like the trucks you guys are rolling in--but after I am done with the absolute priority improvements, when I have extra $$, I will make cosmetic improvement, like your trucks are---I look forward to that day. Safety is all I can afford at this time!

RokMan said: I am not trying to bust your chops, but how certain are you that it is the Pilot bearing? If you are absolutely certain it is, and that it needs to be replaced, then that is what I will have to do, but it would suck bigtime if it was not the Pilot Bearing---100% certain? Click to expand... Im not there, I'm going off the information you have provided. Bottom line, clutch fully disengaged (pedal to the floor) there are 3 things holding your input shaft to the crankshaft. 2 of those are the driven discs in the clutch pressure plate, the other is the pilot. You've stated that you can wiggle the driven disc. That removed the clutch from the equation. You haven't mentioned anything about the pedal falling to the floor or impossible to push down, that takes linkage out. What else is there? Heres an idea. Spray blaster up on the input shaft, rotate the engine a little and do it again. If you have access to Kroil, that would be better. Either way, let the blaster do it's job. It wicks everywhere, looking for dry spots. It may eventually find the pilot but it's a long road to get there. Good luck

Appreciate that tip. So no more spraying into the clutch springs and instead try some on Input shaft where the throw out bearing slides? This was the first winter I parked the truck facing downhill. Maybe water got on the input shaft and wicked down to the Pilot bearing...Same principle applies for Kroll or pen oil I am guessing.

Anywhere,really. As long as you got the metallic button clutch vs them nasty ol fibrous ones, the oil won't do you no harm. Just soak the snot out of it.

funwithfuel said: Anywhere,really. As long as you got the metallic button clutch vs them nasty ol fibrous ones, the oil won't do you no harm. Just soak the snot out of it. Click to expand... Thanks brother!

RokMan said: I am not trying to bust your chops, but how certain are you that it is the Pilot bearing? If you are absolutely certain it is, and that it needs to be replaced, then that is what I will have to do, but it would suck bigtime if it was not the Pilot Bearing---100% certain? Click to expand... How much have you paid "FunWithFuel" for them to take the time to write up their experience and knowledge ?

Yup. Trucks are a money pit. Ok, then. I can respect that. But, that transmission is coming out, either way. In a safe and pragmatic way, of course.

Pilot bearing, input shaft, input shaft bearing, probably a clutch, flywheel grind, cross shaft bushings, maybe a U-joint. It’s going to be heartbreaking, painful and expensive. Maybe discover the engine rear main seal is leaking, too. Just as well fix that, while you are in there. It never ends.

Hold on, fellers. I gotta step out. The parts guy just delivered more lights. I’m not done pimping this Pete. There is room for four more light cannons on the headache rack and I need to finish polishing the moose bumper.

DDoug said: How much have you paid "FunWithFuel" for them to take the time to write up their experience and knowledge ? Click to expand... No comprende, Senor!

Coaldust said: Hold on, fellers. I gotta step out. The parts guy just delivered more lights. I’m not done pimping this Pete. There is room for four more light cannons on the headache rack and I need to finish polishing the moose bumper. View attachment 364465 Click to expand... I would love to have the cabbage to have all that bling, but even if I did, the "Texas bumper" would be ripped off from a stump, since most of my travels are on off road usage! More power to you.

Coaldust said: Pilot bearing, input shaft, input shaft bearing, probably a clutch, flywheel grind, cross shaft bushings, maybe a U-joint. It’s going to be heartbreaking, painful and expensive. Maybe discover the engine rear main seal is leaking, too. Just as well fix that, while you are in there. It never ends. Click to expand... And I will do the work myself to learn it anyway. No worries. I wasn't ripping you on the Dangerous comment, I know how it is. I just wanted to clarify to the HEF Ombudsmen out there, thinking I was some loose cannon and all that stuff. Of course, I am not [lol] and I know you get it. The truck has been great for me since I bought it 20 yrs ago. I did all the work/repairs except the NC Machinery "inj pump rebuild" with "proprietary seals,etc. The rig has paid for itself many times over, I am not complaining at all, I just don't like to be at the mercy of repair shops after a tow---that gets way more spendy than any repairs and parts list you mentioned. U still da man! All you guys are alright and appreciate you taking the time to opine and comment, etc.

RokMan said: Thanks brother! Click to expand... I am sorry FUNWITHFUEL! I didn't want to come across as crass and unappreciative to your time and knowledge, by just posting "Thanks Brother!" I gotta give you more appreciation than that. Thanks for taking the time to send some of your impeccable knowledge my way on this issue! I don't ever expect people to drop what they were doing for anything that has to do with me, nor do I like to waste peoples time to help me out in a bind. "TIME" is something that the older we get, the faster it flies by and the less we have of it! I used to say, "Time is money" and that still holds true, but now that I am older, time is more valuable than any money, and day, all day, and at the end of the day, as they say! Thanks again brother! I will let you know how things worked out and all that stuff --when I do have a chance to fix the issue. Then my truck will be turning heads again! LOL [with a big ass'd 30 yd demo box and white budd rims--I do have LED's across the board, that is a start!]. I am gunning for you now, coaldust! lol Kick some more ass fellas!

Coaldust said: Hold on, fellers. I gotta step out. The parts guy just delivered more lights. I’m not done pimping this Pete. There is room for four more light cannons on the headache rack and I need to finish polishing the moose bumper. View attachment 364465 Click to expand... I agree, next time you have about a week free, I would polish that Moose bumper also...I would even put some hauling gigs on hold to get that bad boy shining! Funny ****! Thanks for your input appreciate it!