Stuck clutch Fuller 13 speed after sitting most of the winter--need help!

I have a 85 Kenworth w900 with Fuller 13speed RR with 2 sp Rears [high/low], that will not go into gear while running, after sitting a couple of months last winter. The clutch/clutch brake is adjusted within specs. I tried bumping the starter a few times in high gear, spraying some pb blaster into the spring areas of the clutch and to no avail thus far. I can push in the clutch pedal, and it feels normal. With the pedal pushed in [before the clutch brake makes contact], I can reach in the inspection hole and rattle the disc near the flywheel. The throwout bearing slides on the input shaft like it should and applies the right amount of pressure to the clutch brake. I would appreciate someone smarter than me to chime in and give me some good advice so I can get this thing to work properly. Thanks in advance! I am not sure why the above last sentences are in "strikethrough texts" but I did intend for that text to show. Thanks

Three items, #1 clutch is a rigid non dampened solid hub with organic/metal facing rusted to flywheel #2 splines on input shaft are worn where both driven discs ride and those hubs are not floating on shaft, a common issue with non dampened drive plates. #3 pilot bearing has seized to input shaft dowel.

Truck Shop said: Three items, #1 clutch is a rigid non dampened solid hub with organic/metal facing rusted to flywheel #2 splines on input shaft are worn where both driven discs ride and those hubs are not floating on shaft, a common issue with non dampened drive plates. #3 pilot bearing has seized to input shaft dowel. Click to expand... After I mentioned that I could "rattle the disc" of clutch. I took another look and it is the intermediate plate I can rattle with the clutch pedal pushed in [ before TO bearing touches the clutch brake]. IDK if that changes anything or not, but I thought I would mention it, just in case. That info may eliminate your #1 possibility, since I can "rattle" the clutch and it isn't rusted to the FW.

RokMan said: After I mentioned that I could "rattle the disc" of clutch. I took another look and it is the intermediate plate I can rattle with the clutch pedal pushed in [ before TO bearing touches the clutch brake]. IDK if that changes anything or not, but I thought I would mention it, just in case. That info may eliminate your #1 possibility, since I can "rattle" the clutch and it isn't rusted to the FW. Click to expand... Could still be stuck to flywheel, what seems impossible often isn't.

Cant that side flange plate that has a steel 3/4" line going to it be removed as a place to inspect the flywheel or lube the Pilot bearing? It only has four bolts holding it down. It is located about where the flywheel is on the bell housing.

Just what type/model of engine is in this truck, and if a cat does it have a retarder?

Yes it does have a retarder on a 3406b cat. in a Kenworth W900 1985 13 Fuller with 2 speed [h/L] rear.

The actual flywheel for a retarder that the clutch mounts to is a disc, the teeth for starter are on the front flange for stator group. No that cover will get you no where. You can't access the pilot bearing without removing trans & clutch group. That has a 15" clutch.

Cat 3406B manual # SEBR0544-03 April of 1991 will show retarder group in specifications section 1 page 58, along with flywheel.

Thank you much! Do you know the best place for me to get a Cat manual /Fuller manual?

RokMan said: Thank you much! Do you know the best place for me to get a Cat manual /Fuller manual? Click to expand... I had some till last spring--gave all but a few away. Ebay possibly.

Thanks. I will look for that manual listed above. Have a good one!

Maybe get the air up, release the brakes, shut it off , put the clutch in and put it in gear and pull it around.

Yeah, get it running then drive into a tree, to get the clutch plates unstuck from the flywheel.

HarleyHappy said: Yeah, get it running then drive into a tree, to get the clutch plates unstuck from the flywheel. Click to expand... Is that better than driving it off a cliff?

Well, I had a Ford 9n tractor with a single loader arm to bucket, dumped in my lap. Clutch plates were frozen to the flywheel. Determined everything was working properly and didn’t feel like splitting the thing. Had a few beers and got the genius idea to get it started, was in 2nd gear, frozen and rammed that puppy into a 35” oak a few times and walla, plates freed up. Lol

I was just about to drive it off the Grand Canyon, but I will look for an oak tree before I do that then! lol Thanks for the good tip!

Before you do anything drastic or pull the transmission and replace the clutch. Build up air and release the brakes. shut it off and start it in gear and get it moving and upshift a few gears then push in the clutch and give it some throttle. It will probably release, if not it will have to come apart.

I assume it has a pintle hitch? Hook a stout chain to something heavy, stomp the clutch and start it in low gear. Leave enough slack in the chain for the engine to crank and start before it comes tight. Might have to put some weight in the box right over the drivers if it just wants to spin out.

I have a 980 WL hooked to the pintle hitch now. I was going to tow it uphill, then give the 1" wire rope sling some slack, get it rolling so I can put into gear, drive it, shift it, keep it slow, , using the sling and WL as a stop. Should I tow it with clutch pedal pushed in and in gear before I get to the top of the hill? The hill is not that steep BTW. Or in Reverse gear?