Stuck clutch Fuller 13 speed after sitting most of the winter--need help!

I just sprayed a bunch of Kroil and Free All in the Clutch/Input shaft area yesterday, then started the truck to let it seep in. I am waiting for that before I try again, but the truck is facing down hill now, hopefully that Kroil seeps down the Input shaft.

JaredV said: I assume it has a pintle hitch? Hook a stout chain to something heavy, stomp the clutch and start it in low gear. Leave enough slack in the chain for the engine to crank and start before it comes tight. Might have to put some weight in the box right over the drivers if it just wants to spin out. Click to expand... Is it better to start it in reverse gear? Will that start it easier since it is lower geared?

Only if you want to back into your loader. I was thinking of hooking up to something and yanking on it as an alternative to running into a tree.

JaredV said: Only if you want to back into your loader. I was thinking of hooking up to something and yanking on it as an alternative to running into a tree. Click to expand... What I meant was start it in reverse and drive up the hill before I do any forward or downhill procedures. I wasn't sure if the reverse gear would free it up better than forward. I can drive it in gear once I get rolling a bit vs risking breaking teeth off the flywheel ring gear. I will just take y'alls advice and tow it up [brakes released and in gear and clutch pedal pressed down]. If that doesn't free it up, I could use loader and 1" long wire rope as stop and hopefully it will free up. Then I might drive it off the Grand Canyon. If it doesn't free it up, then I will get a manual and start removing the transmission [shopless from the dirt]--hopefully it won't come to that fun stuff!

This is all great stuff, but remember it's less than a 50% chance it's a drive disc adhered to flywheel. If it's a pilot bearing issue that's another story. I've had to remove two transmissions years back with a come along pulling straight back and prybars on each side, with clutch unbolted from flywheel. Reverse ratio is typically 13.20 and low is 12.31. * Also it's not unusual to remove a trans and find at least 4 other items that need attention too.

I would not pull the transmission and replace the clutch without resealing the retarder.

mekanik said: I would not pull the transmission and replace the clutch without resealing the retarder. Click to expand... That I would agree with, but if it's dry I wouldn't mess with it either. Takes a few cat tools and best to have a manual.

Truck Shop said: This is all great stuff, but remember it's less than a 50% chance it's a drive disc adhered to flywheel. If it's a pilot bearing issue that's another story. I've had to remove two transmissions years back with a come along pulling straight back and prybars on each side, with clutch unbolted from flywheel. Reverse ratio is typically 13.20 and low is 12.31. * Also it's not unusual to remove a trans and find at least 4 other items that need attention too. Click to expand... Stranger things have happened, but I wouldn't think it sat for enough time for it to be rusted stuck that much. It also happened a couple of years ago. I thought it was grease on the Cbrake that prevented it from going into gear after sitting. I bumped the starter over with it in gear and that freed it up, but that could have been a different issue. If I tow it backwards in reverse gear up the hill, I am hoping that Reverse motion might do better, but probably wishful thinking. Then I can do the down hill drive it in gear and shifting thing. ---hopefully, I will not need to drive it [clutchless] all the way to the Grand Canyon to drive it off the cliff! lol

Then too--it's amazing how brake shoes will rust to a drum and stay locked up dragging tires.

btw, is Nigel still around?

RokMan said: btw, is Nigel still around? Click to expand... Nigel/Nige of Castle Rushen Isle of Man? yes

Good to hear that! He has always been a mainstay and a good mind with good advice over the years at HEF!

Truck Shop said: This is all great stuff, but remember it's less than a 50% chance it's a drive disc adhered to flywheel. If it's a pilot bearing issue that's another story. I've had to remove two transmissions years back with a come along pulling straight back and prybars on each side, with clutch unbolted from flywheel. Reverse ratio is typically 13.20 and low is 12.31. * Also it's not unusual to remove a trans and find at least 4 other items that need attention too. Click to expand... It definitely starts easier in reverse gear than 1st [like you mentioned in the gear ratio]. I drove it in reverse uphill, giving it throttle along the way. So far, to no avail. I now am going to do the downhill method with long 1" wire rope sling attached to large stump. I will get the truck driving in 1'st, until the rope gets tight. Then repeat, if it hasn't freed by then. Do you know how many hours it will take to remove the trans just to get to the pilot bearing, if that is what I have to do? I will be doing it "Mexican style"--on site, and using a transmission jack in the dirt. And is it always a good idea to just replace the clutch when the transmission is pulled, regardless of how much life it has?

A piece of 3/4 plywood under the tranny jack makes life a little simpler.

I have some sheets of MDO available if it ever comes to that nightmare! Thanks for the tip.