CLUTCH stuck Fuller 13 RR after sitting last winter! Need a smarter person than me!

I have a 85 Kenworth w900 with Fuller 13speed RR with 2 sp Rears [high/low], that will not go into gear while running, after sitting a couple of months last winter. The clutch/clutch brake is adjusted within specs. I tried bumping the starter a few times in high gear, spraying some pb blaster into the spring areas of the clutch and to no avail thus far. I can push in the clutch pedal, and it feels normal. With the pedal pushed in [before the clutch brake makes contact], I can reach in the inspection hole and rattle the disc near the flywheel. The throwout bearing slides on the input shaft like it should and applies the right amount of pressure to the clutch brake. I would appreciate someone smarter than me to chime in and give me some good advice so I can get this thing to work properly. Thanks in advance! I am not sure why the above last sentences are in "strikethrough texts" but I did intend for that text to show. Thanks

So, it sounds like your pilot bearing has seized. Thats a bummer, no way to lube it up without removing.

the intermediate plate could be stuck. If you can get it started in gear push the clutch in and give it some throttle it might release.

Maybe release the brakes, transmission in low gear, and give er’ a good jerk?

I have a 980 loader on site with a log grapple on it. Could that be of good use to free this up? I can also get it to drive after I get rolling, I could put it in gear without pushing the clutch pedal in. Would that work to free it up? Thanks for y'alls replies.

funwithfuel said: So, it sounds like your pilot bearing has seized. Thats a bummer, no way to lube it up without removing. Click to expand... Do you have a diagram to where the pilot bearing is? That is not the throwout bearing right?

RokMan said: Do you have a diagram to where the pilot bearing is? That is not the throwout bearing right? Click to expand... Funwithfuel probably meant to say release bearing, with all due respect. The release bearing could be rusted to the transmission input shaft. Watch this video to see what all the parts look like.

Watch this one, too.

Coaldust said: Watch this one, too. Click to expand... Yes, I saw this one. I know what everything is now. The throw out bearing slides to the clutch brake when clutch pedal is pressed. If it was bad, it wouldn't slide at all correct? The plate that I can move/rattle when the clutch pedal is in is the plate after the intermediate plate.

Rokman, already stated that he had sprayed blaster up into the pressure plate. By his description, i believe he is moving the intermediate plate separate of the pressures plate. He hadn't said anything about the pedal or linkage binding, sticking or hanging up. I stand on my original thought with the pilot. The simplest solution i can come up with is leave the trans in top gear high range. Using an engine barring tool, rotate the engine to force the pilot to "break free" This will only buy you time and make it where you can get her serviced. NOTE*** A seized pilot, loosened up can damage your input shaft, or in the worse case act like a sprague and "grab" the input shaft when you don't want it. Everyone has brought valid points, and im not discounting any of them, i just believe that, based on what was said, this is the answer.

Makes sense.

funwithfuel said: Rokman, already stated that he had sprayed blaster up into the pressure plate. By his description, i believe he is moving the intermediate plate separate of the pressures plate. He hadn't said anything about the pedal or linkage binding, sticking or hanging up. I stand on my original thought with the pilot. The simplest solution i can come up with is leave the trans in top gear high range. Using an engine barring tool, rotate the engine to force the pilot to "break free" This will only buy you time and make it where you can get her serviced. NOTE*** A seized pilot, loosened up can damage your input shaft, or in the worse case act like a sprague and "grab" the input shaft when you don't want it. Everyone has brought valid points, and im not discounting any of them, i just believe that, based on what was said, this is the answer. Click to expand... would it be easier to 'break free' towing it in reverse [in gear] with the 980 Loader-at least a few feet, back and forth? Is there anything helpful the 980 can do that would diagnose or fix or get the truck unstuck? I can drive it once I get the truck moving [ie put it in gear without using clutch]. I will not be taking it into any "repair service shops", I cannot afford to spend that kind of money and the truck is on my property now.

I don't know what engine you have. Most older big bore engines have a slot in the flywheel housing that will allow you to pry against the ring gear to turn the engine. Newer ones will have a round hole on the face that you can pop out and place a pinion for easier turning with a ratchet. You just don't want to try to turn off a crank hub bolt or anything like that.

funwithfuel said: I don't know what engine you have. Most older big bore engines have a slot in the flywheel housing that will allow you to pry against the ring gear to turn the engine. Newer ones will have a round hole on the face that you can pop out and place a pinion for easier turning with a ratchet. You just don't want to try to turn off a crank hub bolt or anything like that. Click to expand... Cat 3406b

The "plate" I can rattle is the skinnier of the plates I believe. I think the only time I can rattle it is when the clutch pedal is pushed in.

Should have a slot on the bottom that you can see the ring gear through. You can pry the ring around through that hole. Make sure all your drive brakes are adjusted and holding, chock the wheels if you can and have someone watch while you're barring the engine. The torque is gonna go somewhere, either braking the pilot loose or finding the brake that won't hold. I haven't suggested using the starter, guys have knocked teeth off the ring gear doing that. So.. keep that in mind.

RokMan said: The "plate" I can rattle is the skinnier of the plates I believe. I think the only time I can rattle it is when the clutch pedal is pushed in. Click to expand... That says the disc is free of the plate. You should have a "floating " mid or intermediate plate. That should be free as well to move forward and back a little

Dragging it back n forth with the wheel loader might work if you could keep the drives "planted" and not lose traction.

funwithfuel said: Dragging it back n forth with the wheel loader might work if you could keep the drives "planted" and not lose traction. Click to expand... How about if I tow it up a gradual long hill [off road] then I can put it into gear and drive downhill, if it has not freed up by then. How about putting the trans in Reverse [if I can] then towing it up hill? In other words, it is on a logging trail driveway at the base of the hill with nose of truck facing downhill [to give you an image of what my situation is --I am in a rural area. The driveway/logging road connects directly to a highway.

Sounds dangerous and unpredictable. The big takeaway is, the trans and clutch need to come out so you can replace a $50 pilot bearing . Even if you free it up, it can seize again while in motion. Then what? Plow through traffic? I get the need to get it "in service" but the risks are significant.