Antique Cat with a pony motor

I got the head off, and one cylinder got water in it. I'm looking for some rebuild parts for this tractor, but coming up empty handed. Tractor number is 6U1931. I believe it's a D315 engine. The only liner kit I can find is a p/n 8H2000LK but that looks like it's for a 4V / 5V and up, not a 6U. I'm assuming 6U is earlier than 4V. I found on some old tractor forums that Florin Tractor out in CA was good for antique cat parts, but they've gone out of business it seems. Does anybody have any pointers on getting antique Cat parts?

Try General Gear in Idaho.

wlhequipment said: I got the head off, and one cylinder got water in it. I'm looking for some rebuild parts for this tractor, but coming up empty handed. Tractor number is 6U1931. I believe it's a D315 engine. The only liner kit I can find is a p/n 8H2000LK but that looks like it's for a 4V / 5V and up, not a 6U. I'm assuming 6U is earlier than 4V. I found on some old tractor forums that Florin Tractor out in CA was good for antique cat parts, but they've gone out of business it seems. Does anybody have any pointers on getting antique Cat parts? Click to expand... What you have is a D318, it shares the same bore & stroke as a D315, liner kits are the same. I know Cat has liners and gaskets, Get yourself a parts book off eBay and a service manual. They are your best friend, cheers

Thanks Tom and Bcat, I reached out to General Gear in ID, and they didn't have the parts I needed, but gave me a parts book! I think I'm going to be ok. The liner kit I mentioned earlier for the 4V/5V crosses to the 6U, so it turns out that was the right one to begin with. I'm going to buy one and check before I buy all 4 just to be sure. I'll give my cat shop one more try today and if they don't get back to me, screw em, I'll go aftermarket. Thanks a bunch yall!

bccat said: What you have is a D318, it shares the same bore & stroke as a D315, liner kits are the same. I know Cat has liners and gaskets, Get yourself a parts book off eBay and a service manual. They are your best friend, cheers Click to expand... Got your tractor # mixed up. You have a narrow gage D4, 4v & 5v are power units serial number’s, sorry about that, cheer

Took a little vacation from it, but back at it today. The head is off, and he definitely got water in cylinder 2. Lots of rust in there. Engine locked up tight. The other 3 cylinders look ok. So the only thing I can think to do is drop the oil pan, and knock out the piston and liner from underneath. I may have to torch the connecting rod. In any case, I need to drop the pan. There's a spring pack in the way. I'd have to raise the front of the machine, take the springs out, and then drop the pan. Here's the problem: with a jack under the radiator, I can't fit my wide load under there. So here's what I'm thinking- get a steel I beam, about 5 feet long, put that under the rad, and raise both ends, support em on dunnage. So the weight of the front of the machine is supported by that beam and I can get under there and pull the springs and drop the pan. I'd like to hear your thoughts. I'd need that beam to be plenty big enough. If it bends, I'm a pancake. Any other ideas how to safely support the machine so I can get under there?

I recently freed up a severely locked up ‘75 International MV446 dump truck engine; cylinder 2 was at the bottom of the cylinder and would only move about 30° of crank rotation…scoping it showed massive amount of rust. I tried automatic trans fluid, filling the cylinder and soaking it with Marvel mystery oil (for 10 months!) zero luck. Decided to add Evapo-rust directly into the cylinder thru the spark plug hole; let it sit for four hours and then sucked it out with a Mighty-vac hand pump, could see the fluid was changing color so I knew it was doing something, refilled with fresh Evapo-rust for another four hours and to my amazement was able to roll the engine over 360°! At that point it was a matter of changing oil and getting fresh fuel to it…still runs great! Certainly not recommending that’s your finally (or correct!) solution, but I can tell you first hand within a few hours that cylinder will be cleaned up enough to rotate the assembly; which will likely make disassembly more straight forward…or throw the head back on a hammer it some more!! Send some cylinder pics so we can see the mess you’re looking at…that is certainly a cool piece worth wrenching on!

I'm certainly not above trying some evap o rust. If I can get that piston and crank moving, these engines have side panels in the block, I assume, to facilitate changing pistons and liners without dropping the pan. The panel wouldn't work in this situation because the crank throw is towards the far side of the block and I couldn't reach. If I could rotate it 90, I could get that rod cap off through the panel, and I could make a sleeve puller easy enough. I wouldn't have to get under the thing at all, which would be my preference, if I'm honest. It's a heavy little piggie. I'm going to give it a try! It's funny you mentioned using a piece of wood. I had tried other methods to get the piston moving, like putting a long bar on the PTO and leaving a jack under the end of the bar, soaking the cylinder in ATF/acetone, putting some diesel in there and letting it burn for awhile to heat it up a little. Nothing was working. So I went back today and went old school on it. I tried whacking it with a piece of 4x4 in there. Splintered the wood, and engine didn't move at all. That sucker's stuck. But yeah I'll try evap o rust.