140H cat — Motor Graders

Anyone know the ohms specs for the transmission solenoids on the control valve in the back. They have two wires that go into them from the harness. Serial is 2ZK03342. Am having issues with 2n 3rd 6th not shifting going forward but everything works in reverse. Been told them solenoids become faulty and can cause shifting issues.

The 9W-2739 Transmission Solenoid Valve coil has a resistance of 31 +/- 3 ohms. The common factor between 2nd, 3rd, & 6th speed forward is #2 clutch. Those particular transmission forward speeds are the only ones that use that clutch (no reverse speed uses it). See the diagram below. The plate #13 gives a list of the clutches that are engaged in any particular transmission gear. There are eight clutches in total. The test port for #2 clutch is the one that is circled on the right. I am not 100% sure but I think the solenoid valve for it is the one circled on the left side of the diagram. If not it is the one immediately to the left of it. As a first step try interchanging the solenoid valve for #2 clutch for any other solenoid valve (they are all identical) in the transmission and see if the problem of failing to engage 2nd, 3rd, & 6th speed forward moves from those speeds to a different 3 speeds in the transmission. If it does the solenoid valve is defective and needs to be replaced. If it does not you have a problem inside the transmission with #2 clutch.

Measure them all and the majority wins, that's the American way, LOL!

lantraxco said: ...... the majority wins, that's the American way, LOL! Click to expand... Not according to Mr Trump if news reports are to be believed .......

Mr. Trump has been bankrupt so many times I can't hear him anymore... loudmouth gasbag carpetbagger is all he is. :cussing

Swapped out number 2 solenoids and the one across it still no change. All solenoids also within specs. Checked screen and oil looks good no debris of clutches or metal. Can transmission speed sensor cause this also?

Do you know how much pressure I should have at pressure port circled when blade on in neutral position. Or when shifted in 2nd or any of the other faulty gears.

Lewis12 said: Do you know how much pressure I should have at pressure port circled when blade on in neutral position. Or when shifted in 2nd or any of the other faulty gears. Click to expand... To do a pressure check you have to remove the differential drive shaft. If you engage 2nd, 3rd, or 6th gear with the engine at low idle speed and the brakes applied you should measure between 327 & 355psi at the test port for #2 clutch.

so does the differential drive shaft need to be removed or can you just apply the brakes with engine at low idle and shift into 2nd 3rd and 6th. If I am not getting the pressure of 327-355psi would it be likely that their is a clutch problem in the number 2 clutch slipping?

Theoretically if you engage 2nd gear at low idle and release the inching pedal with the brakes applied the engine will stall. If it doesn't then it would appear that #2 clutch is slipping. What pressure are you measuring at the test port?

Lewis12 said: so does the differential drive shaft need to be removed or can you just apply the brakes with engine at low idle and shift into 2nd 3rd and 6th. If I am not getting the pressure of 327-355psi would it be likely that their is a clutch problem in the number 2 clutch slipping? Click to expand... If you want to shortcut removing the drive shaft, you can lift the wheels off the ground with the ripper. However then obviously the wheels will be turning during the test. Use this technique at your own risk.

I will report back on Monday what pressure I get. Thanks

Turned on blade and it worked in 2nd gear for a little bit then quit again. Anyone know if both the wires that go onto the #2 clutch solenoid are hot or both ground when blade on? Didn't have quick connect for pressure port but I think a have a faulty wire some where. Does anyone know were the wires from the clutch #2 solenoid run to?

Sounds like you need an electrical schematic. Drop me a PM with your email address.

Hi Lewis 12,normally if you have electrical problems the fault light in the dash should be a light, however this is not true for all faults especially high resistance in the wiring or solenoid driver faults from with in the ECM with the key on select the gear that is at fault you should be able to measure 24VDC at the solenoids engaged for that clutch ,don't use the frame as the return for your meter ,use the wires at the solenoids also there is a method to retrieve the active and logged fault codes without any special equipment here is a break down of the circuit that may help you

hi ,if you find you have 24VDC at the solenoids remove the complete modulating valve and swap with another clutch station

Mark is the 24vdc checked with the 2 wire connector plugged into solenoids. Or do i unplug the 2wire plug and check it coming from harness side. Because engine turned off i do get i believe 5vdc at all the 2 wire connectors solenoids unplugged. That's just telling me my wires from harness are good

The 24V DC is with the solenoid connected to the harness. If you disconnect the solenoid it will register an open circuit diagnostic code. Do you have any probes that you can either poke through the insulation on the wires or slide down the outside of the wire into the back of the connector for the solenoid..? If you want the Electrical Schematic for your machine just drop me a PM.

Yes schematic would be good. [email protected]

Okay anyone know any ways to trouble shoot the transmission control module were you shift your gears. All my transmission solenoids within specs even swapped out 2nd gear solenoid with valve and no change. Getting 5 vdc at the wire harness engine side with it unplugged from transmission solenoids. Gears sometimes work but then 2nd 3rd and 6 stop working.