Can I swap out Yanmar diesel with another type/brand engine?

Damn thats a drive for me lol indiana here. Does that yanmar you put in have a place on the front gear cover to hang an auxiliary hydraulic pump because I would need that

Josh Woods said: Damn thats a drive for me lol indiana here. Does that yanmar you put in have a place on the front gear cover to hang an auxiliary hydraulic pump because I would need Click to expand...

I can send some pictures later today if when I get off work if that will help you. Yes that is a bit of a drive. I think the last engine I had shipped in was $300. For shipping so that is an option to doing the long drive. But first we have to figure out if I have anything that would help you.

Bobcat Crazy said: Hi All, I hope you all are doing well. I haven't been on in a while, too many projects I guess. Well I have started on a new project (I thought I would learn better one day but I guess not). I have a 2003 John Deere 1600 wam (wide area mower/bat wing mower) mower that had a Yanmar 4 cylinder diesel engine (block # 4TNE82) (John Deere #4020T001) that has been totally used up, the block included. The only parts I am finding for this engine are from China. I have found engines online for close to or over $10-K. Do any of you know of an engine which is more available that would work for this application. Or somewhere to get parts for it other than China. It just seems have to believe that the John Deere company would have used an engine that good ole USA parts not available for. (Or did I just have too much trust in John Deere)? Click to expand... those Yanmar 4TNE82 engines are solid but getting parts in the U.S. is tricky, which is frustrating for sure. You might have better luck looking for remanufactured engines or parts through specialized John Deere or diesel engine dealers rather than direct Chinese suppliers. Some locals and online resources even handle used or rebuilt John Deere/Yanmar engines that can save a ton compared to a brand-new $10K unit

Bobcat Crazy said: I can send some pictures later today if when I get off work if that will help you. Yes that is a bit of a drive. I think the last engine I had shipped in was $300. For shipping so that is an option to doing the long drive. But first we have to figure out if I have anything that would help you. Click to expand... Yes please if you dont mind I need as much as I can because the engine i have in that mini excavator is the mitsubishi k4n and good luck finding and engine lol

Thermoking used two different yanmar-type engines. The TK-482 is 116 cid (1.9 liter) making 30.3 horsepower at 2200 rpm. The TK-486 is 128 cid (2.09 liter) making 33.9 horsepower at 2200 rpm. Both engines have the same stroke. The difference being the bore: 3.23 inch for the TK-482 and 3.39 inch for the TK-486. Thermoking fitted these engines with oversize oil pans (holds about 2 gallons). They’re a pretty small & compact engine. Pull off the AC compressor and install a hydraulic pump. The fuel control is very straight forward. Energize a solenoid for fuel-on, deenergize for fuel off (engine kill) – everything else is all mechanical. The SB-210 and SB-310 refrigeration units have the TK-486 engine. You can sometimes find them for sale cheap (craigslist, auction houses, etc). There’s several hundred pounds of copper in each unit - between the condenser and evaporator – which will help recover most (if not all) of the purchase price. They are also somewhat heavy – the whole AC assembly weighs about 1700 pounds, and they have a high-ish center of gravity. You’ll need a lot of straps to safely transport upright. Edit: a rebuild kit is about 500 bucks. The engine has removable sleeves. Just seats/guides and a crank turn is normally all that's needed to put zero hours on one. . . . Second Edit: I've picked up (qty 2) SB-210 refrigeration units at auction - one for 350 dollars (broken AC with working engine), and one for 800 dollars (operational). You're not going to get a cheaper yanmar engine. The several hundred pounds of copper is nice also. The fiberglass covers are consumables (they occasionally get damaged on operational units and are costly to replace). I've been told you can sell used undamaged covers for a few hundred bucks each - if you can find a buyer.. . . I've never been one for parting odd-ball stuff out. . . . (time consuming)

Entropy1 said: Thermoking used two different yanmar-type engines. The TK-482 is 116 cid (1.9 liter) making 30.3 horsepower at 2200 rpm. The TK-486 is 128 cid (2.09 liter) making 33.9 horsepower at 2200 rpm. Both engines have the same stroke. The difference being the bore: 3.23 inch for the TK-482 and 3.39 inch for the TK-486. Thermoking fitted these engines with oversize oil pans (holds about 2 gallons). They’re a pretty small & compact engine. Pull off the AC compressor and install a hydraulic pump. The fuel control is very straight forward. Energize a solenoid for fuel-on, deenergize for fuel off (engine kill) – everything else is all mechanical. The SB-210 and SB-310 refrigeration units have the TK-486 engine. You can sometimes find them for sale cheap (craigslist, auction houses, etc). There’s several hundred pounds of copper in each unit - between the condenser and evaporator – which will help recover most (if not all) of the purchase price. They are also somewhat heavy – the whole AC assembly weighs about 1700 pounds, and they have a high-ish center of gravity. You’ll need a lot of straps to safely transport upright. Edit: a rebuild kit is about 500 bucks. The engine has removable sleeves. Just seats/guides and a crank turn is normally all that's needed to put zero hours on one. . . . Click to expand... Ya i have a guy that has a bunch of the tk 486 engines thats local to me I just didnt know what I needed to swap or make to make it work

Josh Woods said: Ya i have a guy that has a bunch of the tk 486 engines thats local to me I just didnt know what I needed to swap or make to make it work Click to expand... Basic chop & swap skillsets are required. I needed to fabricate/adapt motor mounts. I also made a new air filter, alternator mount (for installing larger alternator), made a new battery tray, electric fuel pump mount (I chose to delete the factory mechanical pump - in hindsight I probably should've just kept it mechanical). If you can cut steel and weld, you can do this swap. If your existing pump was bolted to a yanmar diesel, it will be easy. The most technical part would be having to turn & spline an adapter puck - for joining the pump to the yanmar flywheel - if it's even needed. Most modern stuff have universal bolt-patterns/splines.

Entropy1 said: Basic chop & swap skillsets are required. I needed to fabricate/adapt motor mounts. I also made a new air filter, alternator mount (for installing larger alternator), made a new battery tray, electric fuel pump mount (I chose to delete the factory mechanical pump - in hindsight I probably should've just kept it mechanical). If you can cut steel and weld, you can do this swap. If your existing pump was bolted to a yanmar diesel, it will be easy. The most technical part would be having to turn & spline an adapter puck - for joining the pump to the yanmar flywheel - if it's even needed. Most modern stuff have universal bolt-patterns/splines. Click to expand... Ya the engine that is my mini is a mitsubishi k4n diesel engine and wanting to swap it to a yanmar so idk if everything will swap over from the mitsubishi to the yanmar

Josh Woods said: Ya the engine that is my mini is a mitsubishi k4n diesel engine and wanting to swap it to a yanmar so idk if everything will swap over from the mitsubishi to the yanmar Click to expand... You sorta have to jump into a project like this. You can't test the water from the high-dive. . . . . . More specifically, you might need to remount/modify the radiator and/or coolant lines (I installed a 40 dollar honda civic raditor to make my motor swap work - had to make a custom radiator mount). You might have to make an adapter plate for the engine throttle cable. You might have to reroute existing fuel lines. You might have to splice wires. You will likely have to construct new/custom motor mounts. Don't expect to get done in a weekend. I would start by comparing bell-housing bolt patterns between engines, and also comparing the pump/spline/bolt-pattern of a thermoking compressor with the hydraulic pump on your machine. If you're able to properly bolt your existing pump to the thermoking engine, everything else is chop-saw, grinder, drill-press, and stick welder work. Edit: don't forget paint - make it look nice. . . .

Entropy1 said: You sorta have to jump into a project like this. You can't test the water from the high-dive. . . . . . More specifically, you might need to remount/modify the radiator and/or coolant lines (I installed a 40 dollar honda civic raditor to make my motor swap work - had to make a custom radiator mount). You might have to make an adapter plate for the engine throttle cable. You might have to reroute existing fuel lines. You might have to splice wires. You will likely have to construct new/custom motor mounts. Don't expect to get done in a weekend. I would start by comparing bell-housing bolt patterns between engines, and also comparing the pump/spline/bolt-pattern of a thermoking compressor with the hydraulic pump on your machine. If you're able to properly bolt your existing pump to the thermoking engine, everything else is chop-saw, grinder, drill-press, and stick welder work. Edit: don't forget paint - make it look nice. . . . Click to expand... Thanks will have to try this out then. Thanks, also did you change out the oil pan on that yanmar?

Here's pictures of a few things I built: battery trey, alternator bracket (I had to move the alternator up to get a larger alternator to fit). Fuel pump/filter mount, air filter housing. The air filter housing is actually stainless - not because it needed to be, but because I already had it sitting around. You find some convenient existing fastener points to anchor to, and you make brackets to fit. And a picture of a TB-035 hydraulic pump connected to a Thermoking TK486V

Josh Woods said: Thanks will have to try this out then. Thanks, also did you change out the oil pan on that yanmar? Click to expand... Nope - use the thermoking pan. The excavator engine bay is basically flat plate. The bottom of the thermoking engine is flat. It only needs to be up enough so the pan doesn't touch/rub. I used the side engine mount holes on the TK486 bell housing for the rear mounts, and used the existing horizontal holes on the front of the oil pan for the front engine mounts (fabricating a common custom front engine mount bracket from steel). For the mounts themselves I used 3" x 3" x 5/8" thick square steel pucks, with 1/4" hard rubber sheet in between as actual engine mount feet/pads, with a 3/4" bolt holding/pinning it in place. You will probably have to reroute exhasut also. I threw together a quick manifold. I decided to go up instead of trying to route the exhaust down and under. I need to disconnect the exhaust to tilt the cab up for maintenance, thus I put a flange in for quick(ish) disconnect.

Only the TK-486 engine block, head, and rotating assembly are yanmar. Everything else is Thermoking unique (exhaust, bell housing, oil pan, valve cover - majority of bolt-on accessories). Also the stock thermoking water pump is a known weak link (poor flow resulting in known overheating problems). You'll want to order a replacment TK486 water pump and be sure to ask for the upgraded (aka high-flow) version of water pump. The difference in flow is substantial, and a necessary fix. Why you can even still buy the old version of pump is beyond me. . . . .

Welder Dave said: Preheat sounds similar to Perkins Thermo-start except Thermo-start burns diesel in the intake. Click to expand... Sorry for the super delayed response. The thermoking preheat is all-electric - no fuel/combustion in the intake - just a stout electric heating element. The cold-start feature for the refrigeration units is automatic. The computer would hold current to the element for 10 seconds, then start the engine. I installed a komatsu ignition switch and connected the circuit (with inline 300 amp solenoid) to the ignition switch - to control the preheat feature. No need to try and integrate the thermoking computer controls into an excavator. The majority of the control features (sensors & inputs) are N/A.

For chitchat - I recently freshened up the undercarriage of the wife's little excavator. Put on new tracks, bottom rollers, idle rollers, final drives, sprockets, and new hoses from the rotary joint and down. I rebuilt the track tensioners (welded in some new chrome plated rod & replaced seals). Also replaced the bucket bushings and made custom bucket pins from induction-hardened chrome-plated rod. I was really worried about drilling grease holes through induction-hardened rod. . . . I was able to do it with the proper solid-carbide bit (15 bucks off amazon). Was able to drill six total holes with one bit. Drills sorta like shaving chocolate - very strange watching holes being drilled into 50-HRC material. Next I need to replace the hoses going down the boom/arm - the last of the machine's original hoses. . . .

Hey Josh, after skimming back over this thread (I started it but had forgotten it) the truth is Entropy has me beat hands down with knowledge and experience. And being you have a TK place near you that would your best way to go. I can't touch the prices that Entropy is talking about, I wish I had bought my junk for prices like that. But being close to Raleigh, NC everything is expensive around here. Entropy can lead you much better I can with your project. Thanks for the input and info guys.

Entropy, you know a lot about the TK & Yanmar engines let me ask a few questions. John Deere says the 4TNE88 in the WAM 1600 mower has 60 HP. (Mine had the 4TNE84 not the 4TNE88). The TK486/Yanmar as you stated has 33.9 HP @ 2200 RPM. And if I am correct both of these engines have the same stroke and only 2mm difference in the piston size. If that is correct can there be that much difference in the HP or is it something to do with the way JD rates their Yanmar engines?

Bobcat Crazy said: Entropy, you know a lot about the TK & Yanmar engines let me ask a few questions. John Deere says the 4TNE88 in the WAM 1600 mower has 60 HP. (Mine had the 4TNE84 not the 4TNE88). The TK486/Yanmar as you stated has 33.9 HP @ 2200 RPM. And if I am correct both of these engines have the same stroke and only 2mm difference in the piston size. If that is correct can there be that much difference in the HP or is it something to do with the way JD rates their Yanmar engines? Click to expand... Alright I see what you did alright so you just kept the oil pan that came with engine rather than finding a different one

The WAM 1600 mower is turbocharged. The refer engines are not. From John Deere's website: Yanmar Model Number (4510 & 4610) 4TNE84 Gross Horsepower (4510) 28.6 kW (38.4 hp) Gross Horsepower (4610) 31.9 kW (42.8 hp) Rated Engine Speed 2600 rpm Operating Range 1000 - 2810 rpm And for the larger engine: Yanmar Model Number (4710) 4TNE88 Gross Horsepower (4610) 31.9 kW (42.8 hp) Rated Engine Speed 2600 rpm Operating Range 1000 - 2810 rpm (presumably these are non-turbo numbers - but the website doesn't specifically say) I suspect that the fuel injection pump on the TK486 engine is what's limiting the power numbers to 33 horsepower at 2200 rpm - similar to how putting smaller injectors on an old Detroit diesel will limit the power numbers. It's not unusual to get between 20 to 25 thousand hours on a TK486 engine in a refer-unit between overhauls. I believe that's because the engine is under a relatively light load, turning at a relatively moderate RPM. That being said - I have read that you can modify the the fuel injection on the TK486 (for increased fuel stroke), add a turbo, and make upwards of 60 horsepower. Note: I've only read it - not actually done it. I'm not sure if the stock injection pump is modified/adjusted, or if it's replaced with a larger unit. You'd have to dive further into that topic - if you're interested in increasing power of the TK486. Edit: There's a limit to how much additional fuel you can inject before adding a turbo becomes necessary. Going back to the Detroit diesel example: a non-turbo 671 with the smallest injectors will make just over 100 horsepower at moderate RPM essentially forever. But if you install very large injectors, add a turbo, and keep the RPM high, you can almost quadruple the horsepower of 671. That comes at a cost however, as your duration between expected overhauls drops from 12 thousand hours to about 2 thousand hours.