Greaseing turn table Cat 12G

BazSloan said: Can you send me procedure for setting up circle on 12g 3wc Click to expand... Guess what.? There isn't one. I'll have to knock something up using information cobbled together from other models. It may take a while. Meanwhile the basic adjustment procedure theory for any circle goes like this: -

1. Set the circle height with respect to the drawbar to achieve a vertical clearance that is within specification over the full 360-degree circumference of the circle. This is the "air gap" you see between the circle and the drawbar when you lift the moldboard off the ground.
2. Set the front-to-rear pinion contact depth taking into consideration any wear in the circle teeth at the front. They generally wear way more than the rear circle teeth because the pinion is in permanent contact with them.
3. Set the circle shoe radial adjustment to obtain the correct clearances and to ensure that the circle rotates smoothly in a true circle as opposed to a series of jumps & jerks.

done 14000 hrs on a12h kept on top off circle adjustment . over time circle will get bent and be out of round and you should allow for this when pushing the shoes out find the tight point and adjust or it will bind or if forced will end up stripping the gear in the circle drive. [dont ask how i know this] pinion clearance is important too little causes binding on worn circle teeth and if bad enough can result in pinion shaft breakage. too loose excessive teeth wear from circle flogging on teeth when grading. the poly wear inserts on the 12h and a12m [idone 8000 hrs in it] ihave never lubed the 12m is still on its original top of circle wear pads ,proberly got 70 per cent left in them and on its second lot of shoe inserts. the 12m slide guides i replaced with an oil impregnated poly a local machine shop made up for me the rails are mirror shiney [ top and bottom slide guides are poly] keep things adjusted to save alot of grief .giddyup

should have said in my last post if you have bronze alloy inserts and strips they will need dry lube, i had alot of trouble with the bronze alloy slide guides breaking one batch you could see smalls cracks in them when brand new after that we switched to poly.giddyup

Nige said: Guess what.? There isn't one. I'll have to knock something up using information cobbled together from other models. It may take a while. Meanwhile the basic adjustment procedure theory for any circle goes like this: -

1. Set the circle height with respect to the drawbar to achieve a vertical clearance that is within specification over the full 360-degree circumference of the circle. This is the "air gap" you see between the circle and the drawbar when you lift the moldboard off the ground.
2. Set the front-to-rear pinion contact depth taking into consideration any wear in the circle teeth at the front. They generally wear way more than the rear circle teeth because the pinion is in permanent contact with them.
3. Set the circle shoe radial adjustment to obtain the correct clearances and to ensure that the circle rotates smoothly in a true circle as opposed to a series of jumps & jerks. Click to expand... So I think this one ought to work. This is for a 12H but looking at the setup of the circle and circle drive they appear to be the same as the 12G even though the Part Numbers are not 100% identical. A couple of thoughts/suggestions regarding setting the distance between the circle drive pinion and the circle teeth.
4. Inspect the circle teeth for wear. If they are well-worn at the front (normal for a machine with plenty of hours) compared to the rest of the circle you may have to set the clearance at something higher than the top tolerance of distance "X" as stated on Page 6. If you don't do that the pinion may bind up on the (less worn) circle teeth when you angle the circle well away from the 90-degree position called out to do all the adjustments.
5. I've found that cutting up a piece of stiff plastic such as an old debit/credit card and use it to manufacture a go/no go gauge for distance X is quite useful because it's very difficult to get any sort of measuring tool into such a tight spot. When it comes to lubricant for the circle I prefer some sort of dry silicone spray to avoid dirt sticking to the lubricant and producing a grinding paste.