KVGT issue

After checking values, I would follow guidance provided by LACHAU, we all know it's a PITA to backprobe connectors but not everyone has all the breakout boxes. I'm concerned mostly with the connectors at the EGR housing that act as a go-between. Verify your circuit integrity from end to end, yes, all the way to the ECM. Be EXTREMELY CAREFUL not to spread the pin sockets in the cavity. I always use a terminal removed from an old sensor and carefully check for drag while inserting and withdraw. While you have your measuring equipment hooked up, twist and manipulate the harness along it's path. Pay particular attention to right at the connectors and at each P clamp. Your looking for wires broken within the insulation(common Deutsch connector problem) and chaffing at clamps and bends. When measuring the circuit, don't forget to measure against the neighboring circuit for cross-bleed. Good luck

By the way, did we ever get that oil changed with quality oil /low ash? Hoe hand said: Egr screens were removed and cleaned. Booster pressure was good and getting 4.97 volts to the kvgt sensor plug Click to expand...

4 pages of this and not one report of "It's fixed !" Joe H

Well, OP, Vetech63 corrected his issue. Rather than open new threads, everyone resurrects this one. There's a multitude of cause and corrections for "just this issue"

joe--h said: 4 pages of this and not one report of "It's fixed !" Joe H Click to expand... have you resolve your issue ?

funwithfuel said: Well, OP, Vetech63 corrected his issue. Rather than open new threads, everyone resurrects this one. There's a multitude of cause and corrections for "just this issue" Click to expand... did you now how they resolve their issue ? what was the cause?

davecampbell said: I went and ran the machine with the DPF disconnected and it operated for about 10 min without throwing the code. Im going to clean the dpf tomorrow and see if i can get it back to work. Click to expand... does the dpf was the cause ?

Finally fixed the 240 ended up being the position sensor and a wiring harness issue the new turbo the sensor was bad from factory used the old turbo sensor and it didn't fix nothing got to chaseing the engine harness and found rubbed and stripped wires fixed that and it is back to its old self runs like new

Saturday 4/27/2024 My 2013 PC240LC-10 generated this same L03 CA2387 code last week. I used the information gathered from this post to help me determine what was causing it. I removed the servo block, or what I assume is the servo block, to access the mechanical arm of the gate inside the turbo. Used a crescent wrench to work the gate open and closed many times until I got a good metal to metal contact sound in both directions. In the beginning it was absolutely stuck in the closed position, soft sticky feel going closed. Used the machine for several hours after getting back together without the code coming back. Anyone try this with the same luck?

JVRatc2 said: Saturday 4/27/2024 My 2013 PC240LC-10 generated this same L03 CA2387 code last week. I used the information gathered from this post to help me determine what was causing it. I removed the servo block, or what I assume is the servo block, to access the mechanical arm of the gate inside the turbo. Used a crescent wrench to work the gate open and closed many times until I got a good metal to metal contact sound in both directions. In the beginning it was absolutely stuck in the closed position, soft sticky feel going closed. Used the machine for several hours after getting back together without the code coming back. Anyone try this with the same luck? Click to expand... I got the same thing going on with my 2013 210 lc -10. I will try this and report back. This seems to be a common problem that all dealers should know about by now and how to fix immediately.

Finally ended up getting mine fixed I hope it ended up being a mixture of things the reason I was getting a code with the new turbo as soon as key was powered up was kvgt sensor was bad from Holset reused old sensor and fixed that code had a komatsu mechanic tell me to check the harness leading up to the egr block we're all your plugs for your turbo plug and found a bad spot after a lot of lost sleep and choice words it's been running for a month

So what year was your machine? So your turbo probably did not need to be replaced right? It was that sensor most likely?

Update on my ca2387 code problem. For whatever reason my code goes away and doesn't return if the filters are blown out and also the radiator and hydraulic cooler is blown out really good. Tells me something inside engine conpartment is sensitive to more heat than normal. Hard to tell if this is mechanical or an electrical issue

itsall*****junk said: Update on my ca2387 code problem. For whatever reason my code goes away and doesn't return if the filters are blown out and also the radiator and hydraulic cooler is blown out really good. Tells me something inside engine conpartment is sensitive to more heat than normal. Hard to tell if this is mechanical or an electrical issue Click to expand... yes your correct that sensor was all that was wrong with mine and the harness was chewed on between the back of the counterweight and the block .. it may be a shot in the dark but I would check your pressures coming from booster pump if its getting warm causing it could be a sign of pump getting warm and loosing pressure

Hoe hand said: yes your correct that sensor was all that was wrong with mine and the harness was chewed on between the back of the counterweight and the block .. it may be a shot in the dark but I would check your pressures coming from booster pump if its getting warm causing it could be a sign of pump getting warm and loosing pressure Click to expand... could i get a part number for the booster pump?

davecampbell said: id like to start with simple first. do you know how much the kvgt shloud move? i get zero with machine shut doewn and .156 to .220 working it. Click to expand... Dave, did u ever resolve this issue. I got same exact problem. I thought I had mine fixed but still throwing code. My engine oil switch also says off. Im not sure if the switch is bad or just disabled somehow in the monitor. How hand said his was the kvgt position sensor and some chewed up wires on the harness. Your input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Hoe hand said: Finally ended up getting mine fixed I hope it ended up being a mixture of things the reason I was getting a code with the new turbo as soon as key was powered up was kvgt sensor was bad from Holset reused old sensor and fixed that code had a komatsu mechanic tell me to check the harness leading up to the egr block we're all your plugs for your turbo plug and found a bad spot after a lot of lost sleep and choice words it's been running for a month Click to expand... Do u recall if u had any irregular voltages or the kvgt postion sensor in the monitor? Mine is currently reading 3.5 then when it throws code drops to 2.8.

So i have an update on the 2387 code on my machine. I have ran machine now off and on for about 3 days now without it coding. I recently have had to work the machine really hard under heavy load digging stumps. Ever since I used the strong button on the top of left joystick the problem hasn't came back. Im thinking this could have forced something through one of the screens somewhere or something and the machine just needed to be worked hard for a while. Also, I've been thinking that the machine had been in derate because of the 2387 because I've had low boost of around 26 psi only a max of 1700 to 1800 rpm and turbo rpm of around 85000. Further investigation of that issue lead me to a possible out of spec calibration of the throttle control. The throttle is only reading 70 % max no matter how hard you work it but goes to 100 % when tracking. So, if u check front and rear pump and rpm through the pump menu its reading 5000psi 5000psi and 2000 rpm. So everything point to a fuel control recalibration or possible faulty potentiometer. So I'm thinking since the machine hasn't ran under its full potential for so long that this was the contributing factor. Not sure but will know more after the re cal. Will update

I worked on the older iterations of your model of machine and what you are talking about was normal operation back in the day. The machines had a power up and two stage relief that only allowed high idle on the governor and the top pressure and output rating on the pumps when the button on top of the left side joy stick handle was pushed. It only allowed that for seven seconds and then it would drop out. The other case where power up would work was when the machine was traveling. At that point you got both operating conditions, high idle and two stage relief as long as the machine was traveling. Operators learned that their steel toed shoe pushed just under one of the travel pedals would hold the machine in the high setting. We could tell what they were doing because the owner's would call complaining about the machine using a lot more fuel. Also you mentioned that you could see 100% throttle when in travel. Does your machine have a linkage type throttle and governor or is it digitally controlled. The 100% throttle reading indicates that your machine is operating normally.

No its all digital in the monitor u can observe it real time. It has 2 options related to throttle to monitor. Throttle control and final throttle control. The final throttle control is the one that never goes above 70% during normal operation