DieselDialogue

Terex TA400 dual cone seal not seating

Started by Greasyfitting26 replies

  1. oldtomJunior Member#21

    remove seal ass , clean inner bore, making sure there's no dirt or build up of oil or rust refit oring you can use a liquid soap on the outside of oring it wash off. did you get supplied the go/no-go gauge block to check hi of assemble seal?

  2. GreasyfittingJunior Member#22

    oldtom said: remove seal ass , clean inner bore, making sure there's no dirt or build up of oil or rust refit oring you can use a liquid soap on the outside of oring it wash off. did you get supplied the go/no-go gauge block to check hi of assemble seal? Click to expand... I found the issue so the tool kit to do the job you get a splined mandrel tool to line all your friction discs when we install it onto the spindle it was only meshing with 4 out of the 5 discs teeth.All this trouble because the very last disc teeth were not catching the teeth on the clutch disc.

  3. GreasyfittingJunior Member#23

    oldtom said: remove seal ass , clean inner bore, making sure there's no dirt or build up of oil or rust refit oring you can use a liquid soap on the outside of oring it wash off. did you get supplied the go/no-go gauge block to check hi of assemble seal? Click to expand... The way I found this out was using a borescope camera and saw the last disc was just barely on the tool. When you took a flash light and looked at the tool it looked as if all the disc were seated they weren't.Everytime we put the tool on we thought we were catching all the discs but we ended up having to take a deadblow an tap the half of the tool that meshes with the discs further back off of the removal side of the tool.

  4. willie59Senior Member#24

    I've never seen a duo cone seal get so tight that it causes sufficient friction to prevent turning a hub. The way they are ground there's not that much surface area there to cause that much friction, at least in my mind. Are you sure the duo cone seal is the correct part?

  5. NigeLegend#25

    It sounds to me as though they didn’t get the splines of all the brake discs lined up correctly, and so the hub splines came tight up against the teeth of the inner disc in the stack instead of sliding past them. The pressure from this misalignment is what would have bound up the wheel and stopped it from turning.

  6. GreasyfittingJunior Member#26

    Nige said: It sounds to me as though they didn’t get the splines of all the brake discs lined up correctly, and so the hub splines came tight up against the teeth of the inner disc in the stack instead of sliding past them. The pressure from this misalignment is what would have bound up the wheel and stopped it from turning. Click to expand... Correct 4 of the clutch/friction discs were on the planetary hub when going back together when using the splined mandrel tool supplied the tool would grab all 5 disc but the 5th disc wasn't seating on the tool so it would drop ever so slightly where when going back together the disc would t grab onto the planetary hub we had to actually use a deadblow and tap the tool further back then it would grab the 5 disc then apply air to the brakes to hold pressure then everything went smoothly we actually had to tap the hub itself with a deadblow while put the the hub through the discs it was a very irritating labor intense process resetting everything.

  7. NigeLegend#27

    That’s the main reason why rebuilding finals/Duo Cones with the axle horizontal is such a pain. It’s so hard to stop the friction discs/plates from moving out of position.

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