DieselDialogue

John Deere 329 D Long crank time and missing?

Started by Jake847437 replies

  1. mg2361Senior Member#21

    Jake8474 said: Computer? Click to expand... Nope

  2. Jake8474Junior Member#22

    mg2361 said: Nope Click to expand... What would be thinking?

  3. ozarkagJunior Member#23

    Did you happen to check fuel pressure while it won't start?

  4. Jake8474Junior Member#24

    ozarkag said: Did you happen to check fuel pressure while it won't start? Click to expand... Yes 20-21psi

  5. Jake8474Junior Member#25

    Jake8474 said: Yes 20-21psi Click to expand... Also says 1.69V beside the pressure

  6. Jake8474Junior Member#26

    let machine sit for 1 hour and fired back up within 10 seconds. Very confused?

  7. mg2361Senior Member#27

    Jake8474 said: Very confused? Click to expand... And you will get even more confused. Those machines have a sh** load of hard starting issues with multiple possibilities, either individually or in combination with other issues, that can leave a seasoned technician crying in his boots . The 4024/5030 mechanical and electronic engines were manufacturers nightmare (in my opinion) and a mechanic's cash cow. That is why the very simple basics have to be eliminated first. Fuel delivery, fuel pressure, does it hold 4 psi of fuel pressure for a minimum of 15 minutes after shut down, crap floating around in the tank, collapsing/crack fuel lines, filter head issues, fuel pickup tube issues, engine cranking speed, grade of oil (those engines should only be using 0W-40 synthetic). Then we move on to more complicated like cam sensor issues (possibly related to cranking speed), leaking injectors that allow compression into the fuel, faulty injection pumps also allowing air into the fuel system. Plus quite a bit more if I put my mind to it. I have seen every one of the above cause hard starting on their own or in combination with another item.

  8. Jake8474Junior Member#28

    thank you for the response. I have covered the majority of the basics you have listed there. I will say the engine does have 15w-40 in it. Which I will change to 0w-40 imediatly. You mentioned compression leaking into the fuel? I noticed the at hand primer was extremely hard to pump like there was compression in the filter head. And also that the gauge cluster said 296psi before even cranking?

  9. Jake8474Junior Member#29

    Would that mean stuck injector?

  10. mg2361Senior Member#30

    Jake8474 said: I noticed the at hand primer was extremely hard to pump like there was compression in the filter head. And also that the gauge cluster said 296psi before even cranking? Click to expand... Jake8474 said: Would that mean stuck injector? Click to expand... The hard primer is not a result of compression. Either the system is primed or there is an issue with the primer. The gauge reading 296 psi with the key on engine off, if I recall, is normal. An anomaly with the software. If you had a stuck injector you would have a dead misfire..

  11. Jake8474Junior Member#31

    ok yes I believe your correct with the 296 as that’s what the local Deere dealer said also. I don’t think I have a misfire. Ran the machine for 30 minutes tonight. Pulled it in the shop went to start again right away. Just cranks no smoke. Same as last night. I’ve checked all the basics you’ve listed and then some. Any advice what to check from here? Is it something electrical that could be heating up causing to not send fuel?

  12. mg2361Senior Member#32

    Fuel vent clear?

  13. ozarkagJunior Member#34

    Jake8474 said: I will say the engine does have 15w-40 in it. Which I will change to 0w-40 imediatly. Click to expand... I believe the "cold start package" machines had 0w 40 on engine and hydraulics both. si ce the pumps are turning while cranking, the 0w helps cold starts. We've changed several machines to 0w 40 both engine and hydraulic, and installed an upgraded (Mahle) starter. Just the crank speed increase made a huge difference

  14. Jake8474Junior Member#35

    ozarkag said: I believe the "cold start package" machines had 0w 40 on engine and hydraulics both. si ce the pumps are turning while cranking, the 0w helps cold starts. We've changed several machines to 0w 40 both engine and hydraulic, and installed an upgraded (Mahle) starter. Just the crank speed increase made a huge difference Click to expand... Ok I have purchased the 0w-40 but haven’t changed it yet( I am going to change just doubting that will make a difference for starting when hot). It seems to crank fast enough I’d think but maybe not? Mine seems to be starting fine cold now. But won’t start at all hit without a shot of ether when hot. Has anyone seen the unit pump o rings fail? I’m just doubting that all five of my unit pumps would go bad at once.

  15. mg2361Senior Member#36

    Jake8474 said: Has anyone seen the unit pump o rings fail? I’m just doubting that all five of my unit pumps would go bad at once. Click to expand... If the O-ring's failed, you would fuel in the oil. If a unit pump wears enough (it only takes one), it can allow air entry into the fuel rail. Once there is air in the rail, it absorbs the pressure (like an accumulator) which hinders the ability to build enough pressure top open the injectors. I am not saying your issues are the unit pumps, I just think there needs to be more troubleshooting before pulling the trigger on expensive parts. I suggest placing a clear fuel line in the return circuit. Make sure the line fits well and has no air leaks. Loop the line vertically. Run the engine until hot. Monitor the fuel line. Does it have a lot of air. Does the air increase as it warms. After shutting down, does the fuel pull out of the line? When it does not want to start, is there a lot of air moving through at the first crank of the no start? The 0W-40 mentioned by ozark works well for the cold start issues, but you said it starts fine cold. So a hot engine leans more towards a fuel injection issue. Jake8474 said: Is it something electrical that could be heating up causing to not send fuel? Click to expand... If it was, you would have codes (unless the ECU is defective, which is not likely). Early in the process I would have plugged in Service Advisor and watched 3 readings on no start issues. Cam position readings, engine speed and fuel mode. Usually cam position codes would pop up when there is an issue, but not always. Fuel mode to see if it changes to start mode, and engine speed over 250 rpm. If the mode changes to start mode, cam readings are normal and you have no codes, then the issue is not electrical.

  16. X21bravoNew Member#37

    Hi, I know this is an old post but what do these engines sound like when turning over. My rpm while trying to start shows 190 and fuel pressure doesn’t change from 297psi. I am just starting to work on this machine. Thank you

  17. mg2361Senior Member#38

    X21bravo said: Hi, I know this is an old post but what do these engines sound like when turning over. Click to expand... Welcome to HEF X21 ! Please start your own thread with the complete machine serial number and a description of the exact complaint, what has been done to diagnose it so far, if this was an issue that started all of the sudden, or progressed over time. The more detail the better we can help.

Reply