Maintenance season 580SK

Wow you're spoiling that hoe nice work. Rust por-15 is a paint/sealer to stops rust. U-joints if you can tread out the oem zerk they have extended zerks can use to grease & reinstall the oem. Prop the bucket is smart, wood will start popping count down faster popping faster you need to move away or rest loader bucket on a extra hoe bucket .

The way those u-joints are, you can’t even have a zerk fitting in them, or they will hit when they rotate. When I redid my Carraro axle, I ordered u-joints that were not supposed to have zerks but showed up with them. Due to time constraints, I made plugs for them and put good grease in the caps, before putting together. They are a PITA to replace. Next time, I will look for better u-joints that are non greasable, as the original ones lasted for 7000 hours.

HarleyHappy said: The way those u-joints are, you can’t even have a zerk fitting in them, or they will hit when they rotate. When I redid my Carraro axle, I ordered u-joints that were not supposed to have zerks but showed up with them. Due to time constraints, I made plugs for them and put good grease in the caps, before putting together. They are a PITA to replace. Next time, I will look for better u-joints that are non greasable, as the original ones lasted for 7000 hours. Click to expand... The problem with greasable u-joints is getting just a small amount of dirt into it through the safety ball with a grease gun. It will most likely never come out and is grinding something inside. I worked a lot on Cat 980H loaders and all the u-joints were greaseless and still on the machine at 10000 hours. They dont get any particles of dirt into them so if they were installed with laboratory clean grease they just last. I have seen people put grease guns on nipples with 1/16 of inch of dirt on them and just start the pumping. No wonder the u-joint or pins and bushings wear out so fast. Simon C

Deere500a said: Prop the bucket is smart, wood will start popping count down faster popping faster you need to move away or rest loader bucket on a extra hoe bucket . Click to expand... Thanks, yes, this is Australian Hickory, very long grain, yet light when seasoned, it is actually an Acacia [Wattle], makes good handles and a fast / hot burner! HarleyHappy said: The way those u-joints are, you can’t even have a zerk fitting in them, or they will hit when they rotate. Click to expand... Yes, thought that would be the case, although maybe one in the end of a cap might work? Simon C said: I have seen people put grease guns on nipples with 1/16 of inch of dirt on them and just start the pumping. No wonder the u-joint or pins and bushings wear out so fast. Click to expand... Oh yes, needle bearings [and similar] need critically clean conditions and maintenance easily slips to ignoring what is on the outside when the adaptor is plugged on then grit moves in!

Haven't been so well of late due to Winter germs since May but I made a commitment to clean my workshop today, degrease and tub all my trays of tools from a month or more of jobs, oil and put them away now I can think better, sort new parts so I am ready when underway again. Part of that is the Hydraulic filter, I carefully cut into it with our band saw and I respect what is an absolutely amazing technology, nothing obvious in the folds at the bottom despite the horror cylinder further up above in this thread ! Also our hoist / front bucket is part way through a restorative weld and I located some nice 1⁵/⁸" x 3" x 3/16" hardened washers (to shim up the curl pins) at a local engineering supply.

AU.CASE said: Due for some routine service, our 580SK had five cylinders in for leak solving with kits on hand. We had a problem right at the end with the clam cylinders' and the genuine kit's piston seal was swollen over size and couldn't be kept in the lands for assembly also I didn't have a compressor which might have been required. Had to revert to the old rings from the bin, still fair condition but disappointing that the genuine ones would not fit and were disfigured when I tried to load them. All the aftermarket kits were cheap by comparison and fitted perfectly in other posts / later. The rings appear to be metallised / sintered? More steps before to follow in pictorial and I am on the home straight of a 1,038Hr full service to our 1150D elsewhere here, soon. View attachment 358176 View attachment 358177 View attachment 358178 Click to expand... This looks like a good gland wrench setup. When you tighten the bolts holding the two halves together does it tension the pins and help keep them in the holes on the nut? I did my bucket tilt cylinder today with a universal hinged gland wrench. That nut points down at about a 45 degree angle and I was fighting gravity pretty hard trying to keep the pins engaged while I applied torque to break it free.

comm2679 said: This looks like a good gland wrench setup. ... I applied torque to break it free. Click to expand... Yes thanks, I know exactly what you mean and keeping it all together and turning the gland is very difficult. I noticed when the 'C section' device (with two drive pins) fell out it tended to encourage the distortion of the pins and ovality in the gland sockets. Set me thinking, the more pins that are engaged and firmed into the gland would increase stability and to get this, the 'clamp' as described further above remains square on the piston shaft, yet doesn't score or gall the shaft itself and I found that for CASE, only two main sizes with three pin / peg positions fitted all thirteen cylinders on our SK hoe and 1150D crawler.