IT24F cable sizes

hey guys I am going to be replacing some of the cables on the IT24F does anyone know what gauge the following cables are? The + cable from the starter to the battery the cables from the master switch to the batteries thanks for the help

The cable sizes in SWG are all shown on the electrical schematic for the machine, which IIRC I sent to you a while ago. You will find this illustration in the bottom RH corner of Page 1.

thank you @Nige , yes I do have the electrical schematic I see the wire gauges now that is quite helpful. Is there anyway to know their length without removing and measuring?

dzlnut said: hey guys I am going to be replacing some of the cables on the IT24F does anyone know what gauge the following cables are? The + cable from the starter to the battery the cables from the master switch to the batteries thanks for the help Click to expand... Will be safe with welding 2/0 cable or battery cable that is 2/0 . Battery cable costs more but does last longer, ( Better in damp areas for like in 10 more years) . I usually use battery cable as almost 1/2 price here. Simon C

Would be better if you used crimped on ends for the battery connections, such as those made by Grote, Quick Cable, Belden, T&B, and a few others. Solder on are prone to blow off on 24 volts is my experience, plus the solid copper with tin coating last way longer than the Lead ones. Some 3 In 1 heat shrink is a good idea. Remember to put heat shrink on before the final crimps. Simon C

dzlnut said: Is there anyway to know their length without removing and measuring? Click to expand... Each cable length is shown in the parts manual. If you supply your machine Serial Number I can upload the relevant parts pages.

Not to be funny but if the distance between the 2 ends, is like 4 feet, an 8 foot cable might have a tiny piece left. That is my experience, have changed some that there was 1 inch to spare. Better have a 2 foot piece left over, that can be used for between battery jumpers, than to be 2 inches short. Simon C

If the cables need to snake around a lot is where welding cable is an advantage. It is way more flexible with finer strand wires. Battery cable has more of a plastic type coating so could last longer and not cut as easily.

Just for your info on changing cables yourself, not that hard to do and about 20% of new cost or less. I always spray with fluid flilm afterwards. Simon C

Simon C said: Just for your info on changing cables yourself, not that hard to do and about 20% of new cost or less. I always spray with fluid flilm afterwards. Simon C Click to expand... thank you I appreciate it that is a good idea. Oh yeah its no big deal I was just trying to save time with pre-made cables. It looks like I will need to make them. those are some massive batteries, is that in an IT24F?

dzlnut said: thank you I appreciate it that is a good idea. Oh yeah its no big deal I was just trying to save time with pre-made cables. It looks like I will need to make them. those are some massive batteries, is that in an IT24F? Click to expand... Deere 200CLC excavator that the cables were green internally and looked not bad externally. New cables made a very good starter. If you can't borrow crimpers, you can buy a hammer style crimper for under $50 and they work good for cables that you are doing off the machine. Simon C

I was going to say those batteries are monsters lol. I have a feeling my cables are in the same boat as that Deere. I have crimpers for the heavy gauge cables. Is the terminal on the starter side 3/8? also are the terminals that go to the master switch 3/8?

dzlnut said: I was going to say those batteries are monsters lol. I have a feeling my cables are in the same boat as that Deere. I have crimpers for the heavy gauge cables. Is the terminal on the starter side 3/8? also are the terminals that go to the master switch 3/8? Click to expand... Most all the master switches I have replaced or installed cables on have 3/8-24 fine thread nuts. I have installed many and always remove the Bronze nuts that come with them, and replace with grade 8 nuts. This is because the 3/8-24 bronze nuts are very narrow and can strip the stud on the master switch in one second of too much torque. Nuts are worth $0.10 not the price of another master switch. On the set up I posted a picture of the positive cable went to the Positive Disconnect Solenoid which has 10 mm bots holding ( 3/8 Lugs worked perfect ). The ground cable also went to a 10 mm bolt on frame so I used a 3/8 lug also . I always buy the tin plated lugs as they are way more corrosive resistant than the copper coated lugs in outside environment. Always spray with Moovit or Fluid film when done and do not use Die Electric Grease as it is a non conductor. Guessing the cable on yours that goes to Starter Solenoid has either a 10 mm stud or maybe a 1/2 inch stud. I have a kit with lots of both including Size 5/16 for the odd balls. Simon C

Don’t forget the star washers!