Anyone use a "Swede" for grade checking.

Tinkerer said: I never had a Swede but i did have a Norwegian female grade checker ! I really did ! Pictures please of your Swede in use please. I never heard of it until this thread. Click to expand... We would like a photo of this grade checker

AWhitney62 said: Anyone have a parts list or a diagram on how to fabricate some swedes? Even just the base where lath can be inserted to use as a swede as well. Currently don't have access to a laser and the Trimble gps is wacky with the canopy. I made a make shift swede with wood and a lath but the wind kicks and just blows it right over. Thanks for the help. I don't really wanna spend $300 on kuker ranked swedes Click to expand... LOL I was just going to link you the Kuker Renkin and got to the end of your post. figure a 6x6 base of 1/4 steel will stand up, 5/8" tube welded to that 36" long and a "T" of tubing that fits inside it. drill a hole, Weld a 1/4" nut at the top of the 5/8" and use a plastic knob to set the moving part. Notch the base to fit around a hub.

Using swedes in practice: Set up 1 end where the grade is correct, and adjust all 3 swedes to the same length. ' Take swede 3 out to the other piece of grade that is correct. Place that middle swede between them and then sight across those 3 tops. you will see if you need a cut or fill. if it is a fill, you can pound in a hub to the right elevation. Repeat repeat repeat and you can make good smooth subgrade.

Back in the day that's how we did under slab preparations and used a similar system for laying pipes. We called them bonning rods though, then lazers came along and a labourer lost their job.

Tinkerer said: I never had a Swede but i did have a Norwegian female grade checker ! I really did ! Pictures please of your Swede in use please. I never heard of it until this thread. Click to expand... Pics of the NFGC.

Scrub Puller said: Yair . . . Can't quite get my head around this . . . yet. (grins) Another handy and inexpensive gadget is the Yowie level. Essentially a hundred feet of clear plastic tubing filled with water and the ends taped to a couple of five foot moldings. Get rid of all the bubbles, set the sticks side by side, mark the level and you are ready to go. They were standard in the olden days for laying out contour banks and I have used them for shed pads. by-wash construction and for determining proposed high water line for dams with out having to clear a line of sight. Cheers. Click to expand... My Dad built the first garage at their place in 1992 with one. I remember as a kid thinking it was some super fancy tool. I'd love to know what drugs the crew was on that poured the slab at work. It's so lumpy doing 5mph on forklift is like going off roading. A few spots are scraped down even from the bottom of the mast rubbing... I'd guess a good 2" up and down in 5ft in some spots. And the floor drain is the highest point, so water runs into the offices and bathroom.

Also known as a-Swede. *

Truck Shop said: Also known as a-Swede. * View attachment 358377 Click to expand... That's for grader operators who can't follow grade instructions. They get a hard tap on the Swede ( noggin or head), all the same thing.

Tones said: That's for grader operators who can't follow grade instructions. They get a hard tap on the Swede ( noggin or head), all the same thing. Click to expand... Or drivers.

Truck Shop said: Also known as a-Swede. * View attachment 358377 Click to expand... good to know. I have one I found on the highway.

The Swedes just won the men's world curling title.

skyking1 said: Using swedes in practice: Set up 1 end where the grade is correct, and adjust all 3 swedes to the same length. ' Take swede 3 out to the other piece of grade that is correct. Place that middle swede between them and then sight across those 3 tops. you will see if you need a cut or fill. if it is a fill, you can pound in a hub to the right elevation. Repeat repeat repeat and you can make good smooth subgrade. Click to expand... Okay got it. How about for slopes? Same concept, correct? This is referenced to as an "offset" correct? Forgive me for being a greenhorn, just trying to get as much info as possible. Any and all input is appreciated. Anything else about how these things work or are utilized in the field?

yes you can clean up a slope with swedes too, but I have not tried it. I only did things like this: Big road repair we tore it out 5' deep and brought it back up. You have good pavement on both sides of the repair. Set up swedes on that pavement on each side of the fix, at centerline and each fog line and pound hubs using the middle one. Now you have connected the dots.

skyking1 said: yes you can clean up a slope with swedes too, but I have not tried it. I only did things like this: Big road repair we tore it out 5' deep and brought it back up. You have good pavement on both sides of the repair. Set up swedes on that pavement on each side of the fix, at centerline and each fog line and pound hubs using the middle one. Now you have connected the dots. Click to expand... Oh neat.