D5H LGP Track changes

Hy, got a D5H LGP , s# 1DD065XX At the time got the LGP version with the 860mm tracks, as there was the one available but didn’t thought it would be so wide… which is a issue. Cut the tracks to 2.60 mts but it is still a litle wide and long… This is used machine and is in need of repair on the front stabilizer, at the same time I plan to cut some of the length out of the track carrier. BTW (cutting and welding and fab is not a issue for us) Have anyone done something similar ? Could someone explain how the stabilizer bar works… as I can’ t understand it… To me when the track carrier moves up and down the distance to the fulcrum of the bar diminishes … how is this handled by the swivel shaft? Thanks. still looking for an XL undercarriage but found nothing in my planet.

Hi. Are you saying that you can’t purchase long track chains for that tractor in your part of the world? If I recall,a 1DD LGP D5H has 47 links? It will handle 900 mm 36” pads no problem. I’d not be in any hurry to be cutting the track frames down.You can shorten/lengthen the frames by adding or removing blocks on the idlers and changing the bolt lengths. As for your stabiliser bar,I assume you mean equaliser bar?

Hum, good info u give me… Btw , it’s not a chain/track length problem… it’s maneuvering as this machine is planed to be mostly used for pulling a disk harrow… 18 disk 32inch. Ground in my area is hard so no need for a big track pad… BTW I don’t remember to see those block s u mentioned… but I’ll take a look. This frames are very long some 9 idlers if I’m not wrong… We call it stabilizer , or old folks the scale… or equalizer no problem … is same thing… It has some play on pins and bushings , it’s time to repair it, maybe I’m missing some part, but it seems not to add up… Could u guys explain how this works out and which components do what Thanks

I had a 1DD 5000 series D5H series ll made in 1994 I think it was.It was a German tractor with long track links.47 were needed.The blocks are literally spacers that went onto the idlers.You could take them out if you wanted and fit 46 links,although I never touched them in the 13500 hours I put on it.It’s an 8 roller track frame with the cannon allways appearing to be extended quite far out even when new.I’m told this would give it the longer track length that the German rivers authority required. I ran it on both 36” lgp pads and 20” std pads depending on what work it was doing.In the picture it’s on 22” pads. The eq bar would wear out the ends around 4/5000 hours.It was well maintained but those ends just would pack up regardless of grease and you could either,remove it and weld new ends on,rebore it,or simply build it up with weld and hope for the best with a new set of spherical bearings and seals.This was a pic taken about a year before I sold it.It had just had the eq bar removed and the welder had taken the slop out of the ends best he could before fitting new bearings.The center pin was like new after all those hours,and the end pins never really wore out much considering the end play. I’m puzzled as to your problem with pads being too wide.Is yours a D5H XL? If so,can you cut pads down or replace with narrower ones? I used 20” pads quite often on mine

Your parts book will show all the different set ups with the idlers and modifications,but I doubt 9 bottom roller track frames ever made it out of the factory. On all of my D8H/K tractors the idlers had rotating blocks on them allowing you to turn them upside down which lifted the idler up a tad to ease turning when in use as scraper tractors or in agricultural operations.

I think you need to post some pictures so I can understand what you mean by a track carrier.I assume it’s the top roller pedestal? We all have different names for things

My dozer is exactly like yours, Mine came with 86cm pads then I cut them down to whatever to bring with to 2,60mts I guess they ended @48cm. Track frame, I guess is the right name for the thing, yours has the chain shield and I guess mine has an extra roller there. Got no pics… The right dozer for me would be a standard track, but I never seen one for sale. Even XL ‘s just one. Reason is I’m on the south of Portugal and ground here is dry and mostly shale rock. Tree’s to plow in between and below.The smaller the tracks the better. What I really needed was a STD or XL where I could get the frames from including the final drives holders and shafts, but if we can’t find it , cutting and welding will solve it… I saw the scrapper pan there, I also looking for one but can’t find nothing on the 6/7 Mts that I can use with the D5. Need to level some soil…

Hey gents Got to do some maintnance on the equalizer bar... wich involves reconstruction of the ends... Does someone has the numbers on that... distance between bores and dimentions. Thanks

Just recovered the ends, actually was not so dificult, the seal faces were still intact thence it was possible to use them as guide for the bearing bores. Decided ro cut off the pin bosses from the undercariage and weld new ones, its fastest and easy way to get things done with the tracks in place. Come to the conclusion that common steel is too soft for the pin bosses, what do u guys thing of a 7018 weld pass and new bores made over the weld? with a litle heat treat in the end?

I only ever used 7018 for build up. As long as the base metal is clean it works great.

You can use build up rod like Stoody build up LH or Lincoln Wearshield BU. It won't mushroom like 7018 but is more expensive. If 7018 lasts for a couple thousand hours might be sufficient.

Yep, 7018 is actually very hard for a base all terrain rod. It also has some carbon in it wich makes it possible to harden further with some fast cooling. Its very common for this equalizer bar ends to fail, or have to be rebuild every 5 or 6k hours, i guess is they use very soft steel in it... lets see how it will end up.

Mquinista said: what do u guys thing of a 7018 weld pass and new bores made over the weld? Click to expand... If you weld directly on to the existing bore then afterwards you will be machining in the heat-affected zone between the weld and parent metal. A better idea would be to first machine the existing bores a few mm oversize then weld them up. Apart from giving you a clean, blemish-free, surface to weld to it also means that machining afterwards takes place outside the zone worst affected by the welding. It obviously takes a bit longer but gives a far better end result. My 2c, YMMV.

If you weld anything up with 7018, I was always taught or told that if you quench it with water, it turns it into like 10018 in hardness. Especially if you are doing build up with it. While I am not a Weld Tech, I have somewhat verified this, after machining things, built up with 7018. You want to do it after you make a few passes and the weldment gets cherry red.

Nige said: If you weld directly on to the existing bore then afterwards you will be machining in the heat-affected zone between the weld and parent metal. A better idea would be to first machine the existing bores a few mm oversize then weld them up. Apart from giving you a clean, blemish-free, surface to weld to it also means that machining afterwards takes place outside the zone worst affected by the welding. Click to expand... 2,5mm all around plus the penetration, that should be good enough. HarleyHappy said: If you weld anything up with 7018, I was always taught or told that if you quench it with water, it turns it into like 10018 in hardness. Especially if you are doing build up with it. While I am not a Weld Tech, I have somewhat verified this, after machining things, built up with 7018. You want to do it after you make a few passes and the weldment gets cherry red. Click to expand... In my experience as a hobbist , 7018 tend to adapt and adopt rigidity of the base metal u weld in. in the case of machine structural base metal it does not harden that much, but it hardens if cooled treated , but if weld on 1045 for instance and u heat treat the thing, the beads go crazy hard, not as much as the base 1045 but definetly go way hard , beon normal cuting tools can cut.

Finished bar and ends ... now just have to cut and weld in the tractor...

Mig is actually harder than 7018. Have never heard 7018 could be hardened similar to 11018. Core rod in 7018 is just mild steel. Quenching a hot weld is generally not a good idea but certain steels like some types of stainless, quenching actually anneals the weld. Even if quenching hardened 7018 it would only harden the surface. The material underneath would still be susceptible to mushrooming under heavy loads. I think if 7018 could be heated and hardened to restore parts there would be common procedures from manufacturers on how to do it.

I supose u´re right... This days u can find several types of wire for MIG welders, actually few years back i bought some wire, flux cored one wich is really hard compared to 7018. Down side is expensive and the mig torch does not help .... I don´t know the quimistry involved, but as i said above 7018 tend to get some of the properties of the base metal. Restoring parts made from construction steell found in a dozer by welding , usually u don´t want to make the mistake of geting too hardened steel in there, if for a reason u need to cut it out , u get left with only one option... and that is grinding the stuff out.

Some people have made the mistake of welding on equipment with 11018 thinking it's stronger only to have it break again. 11018 doesn't have the ductility of 7018 or the base metal and changes the mechanical properties of the part. Cracks in the heat affected zone are the most common.