Remember that pan I lost? It's nuthin compared to this!

Guys... I am very grateful for the contributions. I've stated before that I have a 16,000 sq ft prototyping shop. I have always said I'd be a happy camper if I never had to leave it but unfortunately I get to spend very little time in it as of late. This mishap with the scraper will afford me a bit of time in the shop as I overcome this. I will 'document' the process as well.

treemuncher said: I hope your repairs go as smooth as mine did. These were the front sliding floor hanger plates on my 862b. One side broke during a load and that tweaked the floor during the dump cycle. Instead of investigating the non-dumping issue, I tried cycling the floor a few times until the second side audibly popped. I knew better! I went out with the metal detector and found all of my missing parts. I've never messed with cast steel but with a little research, I think I got it done right. Baked in the shop oven at 350 degrees for 1.5 hours prior to welding with 7018, using 150 and 350 tempil sticks to maintain proper temps during the welding process and machining out a holding plate to retain the proper shape during the welds. It was ground out heavily into a deep Vee on each side and the plate retained the original dimensions just fine. After welding, back in the oven with the plate installed for another hour at 350 and then wrapped in a heavy welding blanket for a slow cool down. All I have left is to machine down the interior flats on the Bridgeport this morning. I also have to manufacture new top slide inserts as I think that the amount of wear on the old ones, or a previously cracked hanger, may have started this failure. Both sides failed right down the bolt hole line for the lower slide inserts. The piece on the left is already veed out with the hold down plate installed. View attachment 350243 I was given the "shop" oven by a good buddy many years ago when he upgraded for his wife. Nothing fancy but perfect for shop work when needed. Preheating the first hanger and the 7018 rods to be used on the top. The old rods on the bottom just stiffen the rack. View attachment 350244 Front side welded and back edges tacked down. You can see that the 150 tempil stick is still liquid but the 350 is not. The upper inserts were so worn on this side that the lands of the bolt holes are worn down - near bottom of photo - had eaten through nearly 1/2 of the bolt diameters. These lands were built up and will be machined back down to size. View attachment 350245 I kept the heated part on wood blocks so it did not cool rapidly on the welding table. Using the tempil sticks was key to keeping the temp withing the 150-350 range during the welding session. I did notice that while welding the cast steel that I had to run at a lower amperage than welding normal ASTM 36. I ran 1/8" rod at 92 amps and that was still a bit hot at times. View attachment 350246 I think I would prefer repairing a clean break like this rather than trying to repair a failure pretzel. This went fairly easy in comparison. Click to expand... That's how to do a proper repair. Tempil sticks are the most accurate for measuring temps. I think they are specified to use on ASME weld procedures. Infrared temp guns aren't accurate enough. The preheat and hot rods is why you had to run 35 amps or so colder than normal but still seems low. The preheat and postheat/slow cooling helps to limit distortion and stress. Peening the welds would also help but is more critical on cast iron. Welding in from the ends prevents cracks starting in the weld craters. Also good to spread the welding sequence out. Don't start at one end and and continue all the way to the other end. Weld about 6" (1 rod) on each end and then in the middle if it's a long enough seam. Alternating welding on each side of the piece is also important to limit stress. It's very rewarding when you can repair something yourself that otherwise would need to be replaced or cost a lot to have someone experienced repair it. That said, if a person doesn't have sufficient experience it's best to find someone that does. Take your time and fix it right! Taking short cuts leads to failure.

I predict, with the equipment you've been buying and running, your time at the shop is going to significantly increase.

At least he has a well equipped shop to repair things.

Vetech63 said: I predict, with the equipment you've been buying and running, your time at the shop is going to significantly increase. Click to expand... In the past I've seen outfits running older equipment and make a good income. At that time interest rates were a lot higher and new machine prices were doubting every 2yrs so it made good sense and cents to own outright and employ a fitter to keep it running. History may repeat itself

Homer Dokes said: Don't I know it. Remember that 'ol HeeHaw bit with the ol timers and their moonshine jugs... "Blues, dispair, and agony on me!" I'm afraid this one could have been avoided which is the part that really irks me. Click to expand... cut off and make a new one and weld back on

Welder Dave said: That's how to do a proper repair. Tempil sticks are the most accurate for measuring temps. I think they are specified to use on ASME weld procedures. Infrared temp guns aren't accurate enough. The preheat and hot rods is why you had to run 35 amps or so colder than normal but still seems low. The preheat and postheat/slow cooling helps to limit distortion and stress. Peening the welds would also help but is more critical on cast iron. Welding in from the ends prevents cracks starting in the weld craters. Also good to spread the welding sequence out. Don't start at one end and and continue all the way to the other end. Weld about 6" (1 rod) on each end and then in the middle if it's a long enough seam. Alternating welding on each side of the piece is also important to limit stress. It's very rewarding when you can repair something yourself that otherwise would need to be replaced or cost a lot to have someone experienced repair it. That said, if a person doesn't have sufficient experience it's best to find someone that does. Take your time and fix it right! Taking short cuts leads to failure. Click to expand... Ir gun is far more accurate.

Than a Tempil Stick? No way. That's why IR guns aren't approved by ASME for preheat, interpass and post weld heat treatment. Too many variables with IR guns. Tempil sticks are accurate within 1%, calibration free, lot certified and NIST traceable. Even dust or environmental conditions can affect IR guns because they are not direct contact.