John Deere 410 J cylinder piston nut torque

I need the torque specs from Technical Manual TM10147 version 161617-and-up for the dipper/crowder cylinder position nut. If someone could help that would be great. I also would like to know where to buy a repair manual in pdf format that I can download. Thanks

Welcome to HEF Harold12 ! That is because Deere uses a separate manual for cylinders (CTM120519). Assuming you mean the piston nut, which is a 42 mm X 3 mm nut, we need to know the clamp length (the length of the unthreaded portion of the stud).

Thank you for your reply. The cylinder number is AH21C640. The nut is a 65mm and the length of the nut 41.9 mm flush with the threaded stud. I’m not sure if I understand the clamp length. Sorry. I can send a picture. Yes it is the piston nut. I have to pull it to replace the seals.

The nut dimensions I gave are for the thread size, not the physical size of the nut. The clamping length is the unthreaded portion of the stud on the rod itself.

Thanks, I am having a heck of a time getting the nut off be able to measure it. I attached some pictures. I haven’t put the torch to it, I did use propane, but I don’t think that would be enough to melt the lock tight. I have a six ft cheater.

i use a 48 inch pipe wrench and a back hoe for stubborn ones

Smack the flats of the nut with a good hammer, that will help.

If there is Loctite it needs about 400 degs'. A propane torch should be sufficient. You don't have to heat the nut red hot or anything close to that.

Ok thank you I’ll give that a go again. Say it wouldn’t be reverse thread? I read it wasn’t.

Support the rod directly behind the piston that your force applied to the nut goes just in the turn of the nut. I the current setup part of the force goes into bending down the whole rod. Impact wrench would be good but I don't know if you have one at hand. I wouldn't

Harold12 said: Say it wouldn’t be reverse thread? Click to expand... No it is not. JRK said: Support the rod directly behind the piston Click to expand... Absolutely!

The cut-in on the diameter of the nut indicates sometimes reverse thread. Mutter - Sechskantmutter M12x1,5 LH-10-A4K (DIN934) - Feingewinde, Linksgewinde : Amazon.de: Baumarkt Mutter - Sechskantmutter M12x1,5 LH-10-A4K (DIN934) - Feingewinde, Linksgewinde : Amazon.de: Baumarkt www.amazon.de Do you see the direction of the thread when you look inside? take another nut as sample while checking, that's the way check it

I is missing in the last phrase sorry

Perhaps it is an aftermarket rod with a left hand threaded nut ? The nut has the notches in it that usually indicates a LH thread.

When you support the rod place it on a piece of wood or plastic and a piece of cloth to protect the chrome. Make sure that the gland does not touch the ground, only the rod.

That is a John Deere nut, and no Deere has left handed threads on a cylinder piston retaining nut.

Thank you, I was worried about that. I heated it with a torch, enough that the seals warped, and put a 5ft pipe on it and 1 inch breaker and still didn’t get it. Had my buddy help with beating on the breaker end while I bent the pipe. He’d used a dozer blade on one cylinder nut to break it free. I dropped her off at the machine shop. They will try or just mill the nut off. I’ll let ya know how she goes. I appreciate the advice from everyone.

Some mower blade nuts are left hand thread so they don't come loose if the blade hits something. There is no turning in a hydraulic cylinder so there isn't a need for left hand thread. Maybe the little notches indicate it's an extra heavy or special purpose nut?

When you have it hot enough to melt the loctite, it will smoke. I suspect you haven't gotten it hot enough yet. Propane will do it, just takes some time.