580B Broken tooth on Spur gear

That's just genuine badass right there............piece of cake...ya probably knocked em off the rims too didn't ya......lol

Like changing a rear on a arm tractor, only mine have 60 gal of ballast in EACH. Have to drain them first then I most often leave rim ON tractor, except when bead will NOT break free. My bead breaker is now gone so will have to invest in something else!!

Pull the brake cover and side plate off the side that is broken and your there.I never pulled the tire but I guess it would make more elbow room,I may have one if I can find it.

shopguy, or anyone else... is this really something I can service by pulling brakre cover with the Trasmission still in the tractor? I read through the steps in the service manual and now I'M scared that im going to need the special spacers/tools listed and a bit intimidated that these gears might be a bit hard to get off the shaft? Has anyone aftually done this type of repair before? sorry for all the hemming and hawwing, I got called in to work this weekend and as such never had the time to start to pull it apart, but aparently had just enough time to take a closer look and begin to psych myself out.. Just so there is no confusion...posting the relevent pages from SM.

No special tools needed.you can substitute clear packing tape to cover splines for sleeve in inset G.That gear is easy to get out after side carrier is off, you can support differential by applying opposite side brake..the carrier itself can be a little hard to remove if the o-ring sticks..just be patient.you may need hand held impact driver w/ large phillips bit to remove counter sunk screw in carrier.I assume from the pictures you have top cover off,because the bullgear for that side has to come off in order to get the side gear out,that's why removing tire makes it easier to slide axle out of bull gear...before you remove anything check your differential for side play,on my machine the spider gears and pins were smoked from the side gear thrust washers disintegrating...while you've got it apart replace the oil seal, o-ring,and the diff lock oil seal.part #'s20,28,29..make sure when you reassemble with new gear you check set proper end play/drag with thrust washer thickness for side gear/spider gear clearance and side cover squish with the large shims....that whole process has been covered extensively in this forum in recent months...good luck''''

Tinkerer said: I was 77 years old last year Click to expand... WHATTT?? Can I call you DAD!?

In Law's forever family friend and farmer was 83 when I last saw him changing a rear on a 4020 deere by hand. He passed a few years later of Cancer but stayed at their farm until that point. Wilbur Beckemeyer, Great man and Hat off to his abilities without much training, been gone almost ten years now.

Vetech63 said: WHATTT?? Can I call you DAD!? Click to expand... Sure !! Its a lot better than Grandpa !

stinky64 said: No special tools needed.you can substitute clear packing tape to cover splines for sleeve in inset G.That gear is easy to get out after side carrier is off, you can support differential by applying opposite side brake..the carrier itself can be a little hard to remove if the o-ring sticks..just be patient.you may need hand held impact driver w/ large phillips bit to remove counter sunk screw in carrier.I assume from the pictures you have top cover off,because the bullgear for that side has to come off in order to get the side gear out,that's why removing tire makes it easier to slide axle out of bull gear...before you remove anything check your differential for side play,on my machine the spider gears and pins were smoked from the side gear thrust washers disintegrating...while you've got it apart replace the oil seal, o-ring,and the diff lock oil seal.part #'s20,28,29..make sure when you reassemble with new gear you check set proper end play/drag with thrust washer thickness for side gear/spider gear clearance and side cover squish with the large shims....that whole process has been covered extensively in this forum in recent months...good luck'''' Click to expand... Ok, This is what I needed....THANK YOU! so top cover isn't off, Pic taken from open rear PTO/Access Cover. Should I Take the top cover off?

Don't know for sure,If you can get the cotter pin and nut off the end of axle you can probably wrestle the gear on and off from there, otherwise you need to remove the floor panel. Maybe one of the really smart guys can chime in here...If you've got time, getting top cover off allows easier access and better inspection of stuff in there, like differential play and possible other damage to internal parts you can't see from rear cover

You're probably gonna have to whack on outside axle hub to get er moving,be careful not to pull it out too far or you risk damaging inside seal with sharp edges in inside splines

Sorry about multiple posts .My original post contained all this info ,but I had to go outside for a minute and it disappeared..you only need to separate bull gear from axle enough to make enough room for side gear inside flange to clear...put all that crap together and that should give you an answer

Upon further reflection ,when you try to drive out axle I think the outer bearing and seal are going to pull out with it ,but I think you should be able to reuse seal..Once again maybe really smart guys can advise...I had the trans axle out for a full rebuild and didn't worry about reuse of seals....Ok I'm done.....

XR ,I don't want to steer ya wrong about the bull gear having to come off...I was thinking about it at work tonight, that's right working on trucks, thing about backhoes (I got issues) but there may be enough wiggle room once the side diff carrier is off to get that side gear out,don't really know because as I stated earlier my transaxle was out of the machine....much easier to work on..wouldn't want ya to remove something you don't have to... hopefully one of the seasoned vets can steer ya straight...

I wish I could say I was reviving this thread to report on how the fix went, but life and other projects got in the way, and only in the past weeks have i returned to try and get this machine back to work... I followed all the valuable advice I recived here, and I am currently at a crossroads. I have removed the carrier plate (by the was, it was firmly corroded in place and required cutting torches and large sledge hammers to remove.) It came off in pieces, as such I have a replacment part on hand as well as a selecton of shims for the carrier. In removing the brake housing I found the brakes needing replacement as well, and have the parts to do both sides, however that brings me to the crossroads I was speaking of. I am at the point where I cannot remove the short shaft (the broken gear that originally set me on this path) due to the interfearance from the bull gear... It almost clears once the carrier plate is removed and you can manuver the differential shaft slightly. I realize that I will want to service the brakes on the other side based on the condition of the current side, but will i gain the access i need by removing the diff lock assem. and brake housing from the other side or do i have to risk damaging the oil seals by puling the axel as nessisary to remove the bull gear? I cant be sure from the drawings I have, but i seems likely to me that i might get the little bit of clearance i need to remove the short shaft if i can back out the diff. shaft slightly from the other side. Any ideas? I will post some pics shortly

here are some pics...

My educated guess is that the bull gear needs to be moved out of the way, at least, to get the side gear out. So, that means, you need to push the axle out........ With both brake housings off, I don't think the crownwheel carrier will move far enough to allow the side gear clearance to be removed.

ok, If that's the consensus.... I just didnt want to open the door to possible axel seal damage and yet another obstacle. I can't stress enough just how difficult it was to get the carrier plate off... First was the relatively small slotted screw that holds the carrier plate on. It took a full week of heat, oil, and impact to get it free. I ended up ordering a special slotted bit designed for a drag link. That 1/2" bit on my impact driver, with a friend holding pressure on the bit while i drained a battery impacting on that little @!!@ screw.. finally got it to come out. Then, to add insult to injury, the carrier plate wouldn't budge. Another full 2 weeks of heat, prying banging and pulling did well to crack, and break off almost all but the cylindrical center ... then another few days involving my father insisting he can burn it loose with a cutting torch (started to melt material but his torched were too small). I got the call from him that he found bigger torches which spurred me (or scared me) in to giving it one more shot. So a buddy held the impacting bit of a small jackhammer on a flat spot we had developed to try and get it to spin, while I wailed on it with a 10lb sledge finally broke it free... So now maybe you can understand why i don't want to pull apart ANYTHING I don't have too. With my luck so far, who knows what wall I will run in to. So if I could get the shaft out by taking apart the diff lock and the opposite brake, I could live with that as it needs to happen regardless...

Ok, axel backed out just enough to remove bull gear and broken side gear. Now two questions... first, is it likely that by moving the axel I will now develope a leaky seal, (should I do axel seals prophylacticly?) And the second, during this down time, I am going to drill/tap the clean out hole under the screen in the shuttle housing... the question being, is 1" npt too big for any reason? I know own most used 7/8... just wanted to make sure there wasn't a good reason not to go slightly bigger as I already have the nessisary tap and plug at 1"... Thanks in advance...

I only moved the axle just enough to wiggle the bull gear off, my best estimate is I had to move it out 1 3/8". anyone know if that means the splines are on the seal? I tried to take a picture in the recess to see, but can't tell. And the shuttle pickup clean-out hole.... any reason not to use 1" npt tap and plug? Please?