DieselDialogue

Genie 45/22 Not moving

Started by Topman10 replies

  1. TopmanNew Member#1

    All systems work from both ground and basket controls. Steering works but will not drive forward or reverse. I have studied all the wiring schematics and multi-tested multiple things but still no luck. I have printed a lot of pages from the manual and tried trouble shooting various suggestions recommended. There is a small plastic lever on what I think is a "pilot valve" on the pump and when I move the lever forward or back it tries to drive but it is as though the wheels are locked up. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated, Thanks

  2. willie59Senior Member#2

    Correct, there is a plastic lever on the drive pump servo that you can use to manually move the pump swash plate and confirm it has output, but it won't drive because the brakes are applied. The brakes are released from an output from the drive joystick controller. In your case, where you have nothing, you have to start at the joystick controller. Follow the procedure in the service manual for joystick adjustment. If all that checks good then move farther down the line.

  3. TopmanNew Member#3

    Thanks for your input. It helps to understand what is happening. Is there one specific output on the controller that I should check or is there some way of jumping the solenoid that releases the brakes?

  4. willie59Senior Member#4

    Why do you insist on releasing the brakes? You can't drive the machine from the lower controls. Like I said, download the service manual from the Genie website, it walks you through the process of checking and adjusting the drive joystick controller. If everything adjusts properly and it still won't drive you know the problem is farther downstream.

  5. TopmanNew Member#5

    One of the first things I did was to download Chart 31 service manual 2nd edition. "All drive functions inoperative, All other functions operate normally". There are 3 pages and 13 tests. Each test is for voltage amounts at various terminals. Every terminal or area I tested were within the parameters that were recommended. The only anomaly I could find was not showing resistance across both wires on the EDC side of the disconnect. I'll keep reading.

  6. willie59Senior Member#6

    If you've performed all the recommended electrical tests for the drive system, and it still doesn't work, then it sounds like you might have a problem with the drive pump servo. We know the drive pump is working because when you shifted the manual lever it tried to move, that indicates the pump is capable, it just needs control, that's what the servo does.

  7. TopmanNew Member#7

    Okay that makes sense. One of the tests suggested if "0 or infinite ohms" on the wires of the EDC when disconnected, to replace the EDC. I wrongly thought that if the plastic lever made the machine try to move, then the EDC was ok. I think that is an expensive replacement part.

  8. willie59Senior Member#8

    Yes, zero on a circuit that should read some ohm resistance because the circuit travels through coil windings, that would indicate and open (broken) circuit. As for the servo and the pump, I don't work on those things, too many parts in there that have to be set up just right. Nope, I take the pump unit off and take it to a pump shop.

  9. TopmanNew Member#9

    Update..... I managed to get hold of a used EDC valve. We swapped it out and now the machine moves again. The old one must have had an open circuit as you say.

  10. TopmanNew Member#10

    Thanks again for your input.

  11. willie59Senior Member#11

    It's my pleasure, glad to help. Troubleshooting over the internet is never easy, but good info like you posted does help. I'm just cheered that you got it sorted out.

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