caterpillar 3056e no starts

Tube style voltage regulator sits above ecm controls ground and power to injection pump. Best it so check power and ground at pump when trying to start

rmllarue91 said: Tube style voltage regulator sits above ecm controls ground and power to injection pump. Best it so check power and ground at pump when trying to start Click to expand... That works. Do not have pins to connect info at home. The cover has to be removed from the pump electrical connector for that. These engine fuel line systems are also harder to bleed than most anything else.

Hi! to follow on from the above...Intermittent starting issue on chafer mirage crop sprayer with CAT 3056e engine. Couple of previous fault codes that will not go away (ECU update was suggested but not yet got round to it) and new fault code "fuel temp signal loss". The engine stopped dead whilst driving on the road. A booster pack was then used to start it. Drove fine. Booster pack removed and I stopped engine, it would not restart. Left overnight with batteries charging, started fine in the morning. Left running for a while and then I cut the engine and would not restart. Wiring issue somewhere I presume...but where to start?!

I have heard of some people that were not happy after ECU updates on road trucks with Cat"s. Therefore I would not rush into that. Know nothing about your fuel temp signal loss. Maybe someone else or search for an online manual for your machine. Suggest you start by checking voltage in and out of the voltage control module. Thank you need at least 18V going to the pump while cranking.

rmllarue91 said: Tube style voltage regulator sits above ecm controls ground and power to injection pump. Best it so check power and ground at pump when trying to start Click to expand...

Anyone know of a deere replacement for this motor. Ours finally gave up the goat. Ether every time for start up didnt help. i hate like heck to repower it with another Perkapillar.

Having same issue cat perkins 3056e with pump vp30 on a 924G no codes just needs a little ether a small bump and it will start while running no problems or codes any one have luck?

That is a common issue with the vp30. Not enough crank speed, Fuel supply issue filters supply pump etc. The vp30 also has an inlet vane pump internally. In some cases it can be timing issue internal to the pump as well.

Thanks for replying quickly, I didn't have the original cat timming tool just timed from the crank with degree wheel any ideas to time the 4°. The pump just came from the shop could it be a low voltage or a ground

When I mentioned timing, that pump uses the pressure from the vain pump to turn a rotor to advance and retard the timing. If you have the the electrical pin out for the injection pump, you can provide power and ground to the pump with the harness plug undone. The engine will them start but only idle. This isolates the pump so if the issue remains the pump needs replacing.

Ok thanks for the info going to try that on monday

Funny I should run across this particular thread. I also have a McCloskey with a 3056e that will not start. Guess I'll follow thru with some additional troubleshooting. Pump is a 2644P502 12v as well. Must be a common problem, but I didn't see a posted fix on this thread.

There is no fix, that's the problem. The ECM needs to see over 10.5 volts to open the fuel solenoid, and when you're cranking it falls below that. We usually boost ours every morning and it starts eventually. We've add 2 extra CAT batteries and an auxiliary fuel pump. We also close the valves from the hydraulic tank as well.

I'll be checking that, for sure. Just put fresh hot batteries on it, so if the voltage is down I'll look for poor connections or cabling. Starter is new so I don't expect excessive draw-down.

There is a screen inside of the transfer pump has anyone checked it for being plugged? it is under the top cap held on with one bolt

No, I don't believe so. This machine has been largely ignored for about a year. Getting to need it, so taking a fresh look. Here are the current codes: 174 Fuel Temperature Sensor 02: Erratic,Intermittent, Or Incorrect 342 Secondary Engine Speed Sensor 02: Erratic,Intermittent, Or Incorrect 102(4) Boost Pressure Voltage Low(25) 1684 Fuel Injection Pump 14: Special Instruction 1684 Fuel Injection Pump 10: Abnormal Rate Of Change

guys I have a simple stupid fix to try. Put a diode isolated side battery, nothing big but the cranking cannot pull it down because of how you isolate it. You can try with literally a lawnmower battery and some jumper wire.

I think I would check harness

Seems easy enough to verify that it is able to hold voltage at the solenoid then if it is not, jumper a battery in and see. Then the problem could be a harness issue if the aux battery worked. Possibly bad connection.

I'd have to say that with so many posting about this issue, it is just a bad design rather than a defect.