Painting heavy equipment ?'s

I did search, but didn't really find what I was looking for. I'm going to paint my JD 410G backhoe. The paint isn't terrible but it's faded and the wife says it looks bad. lol Is the John Deere lead free enamel paint in the gallon any good? It's relatively inexpensive for paint. If you have a good primer, does it hold up?

I'm not sure you can buy paint with lead in it anymore.

You don’t need to primer if the old paint is still there. The primer is for bare metal. I have no experience with that particular product, but your NAPA store could mix up some alkyd enamel equipment paint for you. You could add hardener, to cure it faster.

When adding paint to faded paint I like power wash then use a red Scotch Brite pad and then clean the area with a degreaser or something along those lines. If you wipe it and your towel come back dirty,keep cleaning

Right on. Working at the dealer, after the acid wash, every flat surface was hit with 220grit with a DA.

The paint deere sells is some good stuff put hardener in it over a goof preped surface it does a nice job

Tyler d4c said: View attachment 364303 Click to expand... Super nice

smifwal said: When adding paint to faded paint I like power wash then use a red Scotch Brite pad and then clean the area with a degreaser or something along those lines. If you wipe it and your towel come back dirty,keep cleaning Click to expand... That sounds like a lot of work.

It is. Do it right or don't bother. It'll look worse with your new paint peeling off after you've ignored the prep work. It's all about the prep. Joe H

Zactly, the prep for paint is more important than any type of paint process. I like to use Spray Away glass cleaner for final prep.

Pic of your hoe don't look bad or I'm cat fished not the first hoe,wax different products now remove haze bring the shine back without a film.

JD410G said: That sounds like a lot of work. Click to expand... The hard work everyone is talking about is to ensure you have good paint adhesion. If you don't have good adhesion, your pretty new paint will begin to peel and flake off in no time and the job looks way worse than if you never touched it. There's generally two ways to ensure good paint adhesion: chemical and mechanical. Since you're applying a coat of fresh paint over a fully cured old coat of industrial paint, there will be no chemical adhesion, only mechanical. To ensure the new paint has a good grip on the old paint means you need to remove all the old dirt, haze, oxidation, etc. At the same time by adding a lot of micro-scratches to the old coat with the fine sandpaper, you're adding a lot of 'tooth' or surface roughness to old paint so the new paint can grip it mechanically once cured. We know it's sooooooooo tempting just to shoot a new coat on the old coat. It will look amazing...until you touch it or the rain comes or the wind blows from the north.

As for me, paint is too damn expensive to not do it right these days.

What does it cost for a gallon of automotive paint and all the fancy additives that go with it no days. We used to figure $150 a gallon for the good stuff.

John C. said: What does it cost for a gallon of automotive paint and all the fancy additives that go with it no days. We used to figure $150 a gallon for the good stuff. Click to expand... Cant get cat yellow in ppg acrilic urathane anymore but the last time i did it was near 400 for 1 gallon of paint qt. of hardener and a gallon of reducer. After that we started using cat paint with hardener and john deere thinner. 3 years ago it was 1300 in material to paint the sterling cab with base/clear

Tyler d4c said: Cant get cat yellow in ppg acrilic urathane anymore but the last time i did it was near 400 for 1 gallon of paint qt. of hardener and a gallon of reducer. After that we started using cat paint with hardener and john deere thinner. 3 years ago it was 1300 in material to paint the sterling cab with base/clear Click to expand... Nope , no, now way I am paying that. Sherwin Williams has a store that does automotive paints. And they will match whatever you bring in. From the dealership, I got a spray can and it was $50. That had it taken it up to Lowe's to be match and put in cans for resell. Back to Sherwin Williams for other things they really are top notch, the can match paint like no other in town ,including their other stores and it is reasonably priced

Tractor Supply has paint and hardener, no Idea on ccost though. Joe H

smifwal said: Nope , no, now way I am paying that. Sherwin Williams has a store that does automotive paints. And they will match whatever you bring in. From the dealership, I got a spray can and it was $50. That had it taken it up to Lowe's to be match and put in cans for resell. Back to Sherwin Williams for other things they really are top notch, the can match paint like no other in town ,including their other stores and it is reasonably priced Click to expand... If you do proper prep and expect a nice shine to be there for years to come in a few years youll forget the cost

When I value my time it takes for me to repaint a piece of equipment the right way, the paint and supplies are by far the cheapest components.

We repainted 2 old concrete mixers in the winter, since we were changing out the worn out drums for new, freshly painted ones. The new ones were tied down on a trailer, awaiting installation. Maybe it was not secure enough, because the paint got scuffed in the 3 places where it was blocked, and rust ensued. Will this spread like an infection if I dont act upon it? The drum manufacturer lists the paint as "basic white", but skimming Sherwin's website there doesn't appear to be a corresponding color specification. If the colors are mismatched I will have to think of some kind of small design to paint over the affected areas. This could create visual problems as far as continuity of design or symmetry as the drum rotates, but maybe I've got bigger problems.