Dealing with a stuck hydro cylinder pin. Is this a good plan.

Have a 1" x prob 8"L pin that needs to come out. Due to a few reasons being hydraulic lines I can't move, and equipment onsite, I can't really run for the welder and hot knife. If you can imagine the 1" hydraulic rod with 1" eye on it, centered between two bossed which are each about 3" long. The issue here is getting compounded because I think one of those bosses is tweaked from hitting something. Like there is a chance that pin is bent! With that variable, I think I want to run a thin cut off wheel on each side of that cylinder eye, get the eye and cylinder out of there, which leaves me two pieces to extract, but half the war, maybe? Once the rod eye is out, there will be about 1.5" between those bosses. I don't have a plan on how to get the slugs out yet, but I figure if that pin is bent, this should help. Those big heavy bosses are only supported by 1/4" plate, like a box section, so it limits a few things, but maybe opens other possibilities.

Sawzall blades work the best, usually carbide to get through the chrome

Zewnten said: Sawzall blades work the best, usually carbide to get through the chrome Click to expand... Blade would bring risk of hydro lines but otherwise, I was on this same path. Actually I did buy some more hacksaw blades because I predict I won't make it all the way through (reach). Figure I can finish it off by hand. But try as I might, I guess you can't buy carbide anything for a hacksaw so bimetal is it. Would have hammered today but the AC felt too good. my luck that as I need this stuff done, Jezuz turned on the griddle.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-9-in-Carbide-Grit-Reciprocating-Saw-Blades-for-Cast-Iron-Cutting-5-Pack-DS0930CGX005/203467507 Then I use a carbide tooth saw blade https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-9-in-8-TPI-Steel-Demon-Carbide-Teeth-Reciprocating-Saw-Blades-for-Thick-Metal-3-Pack-DS0908CF3/207192133

Look for either "Diablo" or "EZArc" brand names I know Diablo makes carbide tipped sawzall blades, and have had good luck with EZArc blades and grinding wheels; not sure if they make hacksaw blades

yeah, the sawzall approach is just not controlled enough for the tight area. Do agree that fits the need here otherwise. I know carbide is the right material for that pin, but I know these Diablo cutoff wheels will hot knife it as well. Well, I guess I have little experience with manual cutting of these pins. I usually run a sacrificial carbide or CBN insert through the chromy or cased depth, then let normal toys play. It is a legit factory pin so I'm wagering on HRC 70 nitride case, on a 4140-4150 base metal. Only the case will screw with me. Have you guys run this approach to chop the pin? Do the rems come out easier? I have not even formulated that plan.

fastline said: Have a 1" x prob 8"L pin that needs to come out. Due to a few reasons being hydraulic lines I can't move, and equipment onsite, I can't really run for the welder and hot knife. If you can imagine the 1" hydraulic rod with 1" eye on it, centered between two bossed which are each about 3" long. The issue here is getting compounded because I think one of those bosses is tweaked from hitting something. Like there is a chance that pin is bent! With that variable, I think I want to run a thin cut off wheel on each side of that cylinder eye, get the eye and cylinder out of there, which leaves me two pieces to extract, but half the war, maybe? Once the rod eye is out, there will be about 1.5" between those bosses. I don't have a plan on how to get the slugs out yet, but I figure if that pin is bent, this should help. Those big heavy bosses are only supported by 1/4" plate, like a box section, so it limits a few things, but maybe opens other possibilities. Click to expand... I have taken out plenty of 1-2 inch diameter pins by simply using a torch with a special technic to blow a hole at a slight upwards ( 10-15 Degrees ) angle into the pin about 3-4 inches deep and cool it with a garden hose while Red hot. I posted the instructions on this site with a picture before but have not looked for it. For those that do not know they use to burn with only a torch 5/8 or 3/4 inch Hot rivets out of railway cars to chnge sheets of steel and hot rivetted new ones back in. I have burned out about 50 of those rivets before,but best have the right cloths on. Just remembered where it is. If the pin is sliced first it would be even easier. If there is grease in center of pin it needs to come out first. Simon C

Forgot to say that it takes usually 2 full revolutions going slowly with torch to get a hole out the other end of 6 inch hot rivet. I had more indepth instructions before but not sure where on website. Simon C

A little pin like that I'd zip wheel with out much though if I can get a 4.5" or 6" grinder at it, if the slugs don't come out of the bosses take em out with a torch after the cylinder is out of the way. Most of the time short pieces of small diameter pin come out with an air hammer or BO punch and sledge tho. Worst case if they really don't want out and you don't want to torch, drill the center and carve out with a burr.

JLarson said: A little pin like that I'd zip wheel with out much though if I can get a 4.5" or 6" grinder at it, if the slugs don't come out of the bosses take em out with a torch after the cylinder is out of the way. Most of the time short pieces of small diameter pin come out with an air hammer or BO punch and sledge tho. Worst case if they really don't want out and you don't want to torch, drill the center and carve out with a burr. Click to expand... This is the path I'm on, but I got delayed today. Tomorrow it will happen. machine is now is position. I just don't know what fight will happen with the slugs but hoping they study Iran....comply or bad things will happen to you.

https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/looking-hard-at-purchasing-a-100t-portable-track-pin-press-anybody-use-one-and-have-thoughts.95242/post-1094873 @Simon C is this the post you mentioned?

Looking HARD at purchasing a 100T portable track pin press......anybody use one and have thoughts?? The main guy doing the work was almost 80 and made us look bad. Used a 20lb sledge to knock a pin out and reinstall..... Them "old guys" have technique. My 74 year old hay mentor stacked a whole hay wagon behind the baler, alone. The next year, TWO high school "Football players" almost died... www.heavyequipmentforums.com And this one

John Shipp said: https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/looking-hard-at-purchasing-a-100t-portable-track-pin-press-anybody-use-one-and-have-thoughts.95242/post-1094873 @Simon C is this the post you mentioned? Click to expand... Thanks for finding it as yes that is the process to remove large or small pins. Yes it took me more than 1/2 hour to type as my typing skills are not as good or fast as my torch skills. There is a lot of detail written there as just forgetting to have lots of air blowing hard at back of head can mean instant failure or damage to other components cause once you fog up you don't know what you are doing anymore. Hope it helps someone else out. Simon C

John Shipp said: Looking HARD at purchasing a 100T portable track pin press......anybody use one and have thoughts?? The main guy doing the work was almost 80 and made us look bad. Used a 20lb sledge to knock a pin out and reinstall..... Them "old guys" have technique. My 74 year old hay mentor stacked a whole hay wagon behind the baler, alone. The next year, TWO high school "Football players" almost died... www.heavyequipmentforums.com And this one Click to expand... This is the full detail explanation along with the picture. Simon C

Well the slice is done. Wish it was all that easy! Indeed something was under stress because nearing the end of the first cut, she popped pretty good. scared the **** out of me because that last nibble, I had to do dumb things and run an oversized cuttoff wheel with no guard. Explosion city....lol I think it blew up. Anyway, the slugs are stuck and tight. If they moved even a little, i would consider it, but not happening. Burning out has to be a last option because again, hydro lines I can't remove, and lots of risk here. Pulling rather than pushing is the right play. What can I rig up here? I was going to check around for a powered welder. I really need a hollow ram......ain't got. I'd question of I can get enough tension force with threads alone. Lots of extra torsion too. Good, easy access to the outsides of these slugs. No clue what it will take to free them but I need to plan like this will be a war.

Can you wrap the hydraulic lines in wet rags and prop some steel plates over them to allow the torch to work, have someone flood hose in there while cutting?

Welding blanket or even pieces of leather could protect hyd. lines. I've cut old welding gloves to use as protectors. May not even have to cut them. Some pics. of what you're dealing with would help.

John Shipp said: Can you wrap the hydraulic lines in wet rags and prop some steel plates over them to allow the torch to work, have someone flood hose in there while cutting? Click to expand... yeah, it's possible. there is risk but possible. thinking harder on the welding and press stuff, I'm getting in the weeds with that.

pics

I'd probably try heating/cooling and air hammering before messing with rigging up a puller. If not then rig a puller and put tension on it then give it some more heat and vibration and it'll probably pop.