How to replace hoses on Grove TMS 300 outriggers

One hose blew, but they are all super old so I want to replace all outrigger hoses. I only see 4 hoses on the manifold and looking at the parts manual, there are indeed only 4 . How does this work ? There are 4 cylinders and each on needs in or out, so why are there not 8 hoses ? The 4 go from the solenoid into "nirvana" and I do not see any way to access them . Does anyone have a video resource or shop manual page explaining how to replace them ?

Shop manuals are available on ebay. I'm not sure they are going to tell you much. The solenoids can shift between extend and retract, allowing oil to run back to tank from either hose. Put a rope or a wire on the old hose as you pull them and use the rope to pull the new hose in. You'll have to pull the beam out to access the beam cylinder for replacing those hoses. Are you wanting to replace the hoses from the solenoids to the box beam also? because they are a separate hose, different from the one inside the beam.

I tried to pull on the jacks hose and there seems not to be any movement. As I mentioned before, the valve is easy accessible but then those hoses go into the chassis where there is no way to follow them. The extension cylinder has fixed connections, but the jacks must have some sort of guiding rail as they must be long enough to reach fully out ,but also be stored fully in ? See attached pics. I assume the jacks hoses go in an u shape as the red lines ? And then there are three lines connecting, two to solenoids and one to the "return" line which I assume the Outrigger Selector Valve makes this line either return or pressure . So I would pull pin to get the beam out to access the jack hoses and the other 3 I have to pull with the rope/cable you mentioned ?

Pull the pin to pull the beam. The hoses make a S/ U shape inside the beam. The ones in the chassis are kind of a pain. I've had to cut the angled 8" x 8" plate above a beam to access a hose that wouldn't come out. Then I rewelded the plate back on.

Yeah that i was afraid of Let me see what happens tomorrow. Thanks for the advice

Ok so how do I disconnect this hoses inside the outrigger?

Double crows foot and two extensions, the arrows point to the hose ends. Swivel fitting should be the next flat further out. Leave those hoses in the carrier, and slide the beam and cylinder out with the end fittings on the cylinder. I always put a wood block between the bottom of the cylinder and the bottom of the box beam, so it doesn't fall all the way down after pulling the pin. Then its also under there to allow you to hook back up the pin, when going back together.

In another life I owned a special wrench I made for those fitting. Makes me wonder if it’s still floating around in my homemade wrench drawer.

Knepptune said: In another life I owned a special wrench I made for those fitting. Makes me wonder if it’s still floating around in my homemade wrench drawer. Click to expand... If you don't have crow's feet, torch will make a wrench. Its nice if the last guy didn't tighten the beejaysus out of them. Of course I always tighten the beejaysus out of them, because I don't want them to leak.

Ok if i get them open with the crow food, i assume i dont need to pull the outriggers out to replace thoses hoses? The hole they go into the carrier are tight like a virgin! Not sure if they going to move!

joer00 said: i assume i dont need to pull the outriggers out to replace thoses hoses? Click to expand... Those hoses rarely go bad. They've probably been in there since it was built, and are stiff as all get out. They don't move at all, and aren't exposed to the sun, or even really much road grime. I'd leave them alone if they aren't leaking. The ones in the beams go bad all the time. They are constantly taking a s to l shape while running in and out inside the beam. The outrigger jack ones are exposed to the sun and someone putting beams in with toolboxes laying on the beams, which ruins the hoses. I would probably replace the beam and jack ones if I was doing it, but I wouldn't do the ones in the carrier. Unless they were leaking. But I tend to let sleeping dogs lie. And I'm lazy.

Unfortunately the carrier hoses are the problem. Its even hard to see which one exactly leaks so i thought i better replace them all. Some have the hose metal exposed and its rusty.

crane operator said: Double crows foot and two extensions, the arrows point to the hose ends. Swivel fitting should be the next flat further out. Leave those hoses in the carrier, and slide the beam and cylinder out with the end fittings on the cylinder. I always put a wood block between the bottom of the cylinder and the bottom of the box beam, so it doesn't fall all the way down after pulling the pin. Then its also under there to allow you to hook back up the pin, when going back together. View attachment 346525 Click to expand... I would assume the pin to pull is not the one in the photo but the one of the opposite side close to the jack? How could one out a wood block in there? There is no access

Pull the pin opposite the jack. Pull beam jack and beam cylinder. Then pull beam cylinder from beam. If the carrier hoses get stuck, you may have to cut a acccess hole in the slanted flat plate above them. Then weld it back shut when you get the hoses changed.

My tms300 has a hole in the end of the beams behind the jack. If you pull the bolts holding the jack to the beam, you can reach in from the end of the beam to access hoses for the extension cylinder. I unfortunately got to do this in the field at a customers house about a year ago. Made a big damn mess but the guy was happy we fixed it and got the tree off his house.

As @crane operator mentioned, looks like this hoses don't come out without cutting the blade above the beam. I put some temporary in bypassing everything going from the outside. Anybody else ever replaced those and has a trick how to get them out ?

You can try getting them through with making a puller cap/ plug. A Hydraulic cap with a washer welded to the end of the cap, and tie a cable/ rope to it. Pull the hose out, put the new hose on the cap, and pull it through. Its a pretty tight hole in the top of the box, and at the frame. Or you can cut a 6" - 8" square window where the angled flat is, swap hoses, and weld the plate back in. The plate isn't very heavy right there, and you aren't really affecting the structural of the outrigger.

@treemuncher shows a hose puller he has made up in this thread: https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/building-custom-cable-assemblies-for-pulling-and-other-uses.112233/#post-1260296

Pulling hoses with such a force wont risk braking the new one ?