Ol' Skool Budd Lug nuts

I bought an old trailer several years ago and the tires are in need of changing. While removing the inner lugs; 2 of the square ends sheared off. Pipe wrench is a fail, so what other ways is there to get these off?? I cut down the side of one with an angle grinder, but couldn't get all the way to the rim. I'm thinking that I can't get to the rim with a torch either (w/o doing damage to the rim). This trailer has old skool brakes and would require a lot of work to replace the lug stud, if I just cut the stud off.

E-Bay or a local truck tire shop will have one. Pound it on then remove with outer nut socket.

What are they called? I'd rather have one/several of my own. Do I need one for the Left side and one for the right side?

On old stud pilots with inner thimble, before sticking a air gun to it, take a 3 lb smithing hammer and swat them from the side on the square drive. Those will spin right off. * The inner nut Slang is thimble. Right's and left's.

Thanx. Found some on ebay. 1 used and 1 new on it's way.

Any truck tire shop will have them-new, Napa can get them too or any truck parts store.

Dont be like 9 year old me and try to put a right thimble on a left stud. It wont work and dad will be mad

I found mine. Right where it has been for the last 30+ years.

Never had a reason to own one of those in all these years, lucky.

First time I rotated the drivers on my 2000 Pete, I needed it on about half of the inners. Cheap foreign junk.

Dont get the torch anywhere near the hoop portion of the rim. The tire can detonate if you get a hot spot on the rim. The tire is full of hydrocarbon vapor from the tire offgassing.

Thanx Davo, I never would have thought of that. Pops, why is your 2000 Pete still running stud pilot?? My 99 Western Star is hub pilot.

I ordered it without hub piloted because my other trucks and a couple trailers still had the Budds. My mistake. This was in 2001. The next 2 had hub piloted. I have been truckless (neutered) since 08.

Worst case cut the stud and thimble flush with the rim and punch and an 8lb hammer and it will be out then set a new studd

Depends on whether it could possibly have butterfly type studs being a trailer. Don't even need to pull the drum with those.

When I was much younger with much better eyes I used to torch them off and save the stud. That's never going to happen again.

excavator said: When I was much younger with much better eyes I used to torch them off and save the stud. That's never going to happen again. Click to expand... Im pretty good with a torch not that good tho a new stud would be needed

The 1 that I cut with a wiz wheel was a fail with the tool. I got my portable welder going and put a nut on it. It broke the weld several times before I backed the outer nut off and welded on the end too. Then it came loose. The other one the tool kept slipping and got the outer nut weld action too. Before welding I drilled 3 holes in the inner lug nut flare and gave it a good dose of PB Blaster. That one broke loose easier. New tires with a few inner/outer lug nuts and I'm all set!! Thanx guys! PS I think these brakes are called inboard brakes and would be a PITA to pull off for a few studs. Thankfully I didn't have to.

Brandt said: PS I think these brakes are called inboard brakes and would be a PITA to pull off for a few studs. Thankfully I didn't have to. Click to expand... Inboard drums--remove bearings--use a greasy plastic mud flap if you don't have a wheel dolly, and slide tires, drum & hub off in one piece. If only changing shoes, then install new seal and slide back together. Viola.

Thanx for the tip. When I bought this trailer 5-6 years ago, I immediately took it to my mechanic (before he retired) and had him do the brakes and put the correct valve and Maxi cans on it. I wanted the spring brakes to hold the trailer because it will be parked on a hill all the time. Hopefully I will never have to do brakes on this again. It sees about 2-300 miles a year. The tires rot long before they wear out.