Toro Steel Buildings

We use NR-211 or NR-212 Innershield on containers. I assume that 16 mm plate is 304SS? I'd probably use Innershield on that too, you're going to have to at least cold galv the welds since they're going to rust at the container so there's no point in messing around with 309 rod or wire, especially for shims.

If NR211 or NR212 Innershield works on containers then pretty much anything will work. Those are basic low penetration general purpose wires that aren't designed for dynamic loading or anything under load. With stick I'd just use 7018 (because it's what most welders have) and spray some cold galvanizing on it. Once in place I don't think anything is going to move. Everything just sits there. If the shims are stainless then 309 would be preferred. Not sure if you can buy 309 in small packs. You can buy small packs of high strength rods that are stainless based though. If the shims have weight on them they probably don't need much to hold them in place so wouldn't bother with stainless rods. Interesting project. If my property gets approved for rezoning I'm thinking of putting up a fabric building. Would like another pole shed but they are ridiculously expensive now. Shipping containers for sides is something I'm considering. I want it to be hard to break into the building and can't afford a concrete floor but shipping containers would be good for tools, the drill press and other things that need a flat surface. Have to compare the cost of different footings.

The second one lands where the arrow is and the third one will land just to the left of the top latch hooks on the next door. 13’ 4” from the end

This is the inside around the doors, seems structurally sound to me. I was wondering if there would be a need to bridge the shim steel between the upright posts on each side of the door, not sure on that.

I would say that the door openings are not strong enough to carry your rafter load. Get 6" of wet heavy snow up on that 58' clear span, and there's going to be a lot of weight up there. I would build my own posts and header rather than relying on that door frame.

crane operator said: I would build my own posts and header rather than relying on that door frame. Click to expand... X2. Was going to say the same.

CM1995 said: X2. Was going to say the same. Click to expand... It would have been nice if they would have designed/ made the rafters to land between the door openings.

crane operator said: would build my own posts and header rather than relying on that door frame. Click to expand... I would like to keep the door way completely open so do you think I should use a 4” square tubing and cut a hole in the top for it to run through on each side of the door and bridge between them?

I think you would have a lot more room on top of the conex to build a header, than trying to do it inside the conex door opening. I would have posts on each side of the door, with a little arm coming off the post to tie it to the wall of the conex. Have the header span the whole doorway, with posts on each side. Shorten the leg of the rafter, by the height of the header.

This way you can share the load of the header, between the conex walls and the posts, and not lose any room of the doorway. Except for what the posts take up inside the building. I would avoid making any holes in the roof of the conex. It will leak.

crane operator said: I would say that the door openings are not strong enough to carry your rafter load. Get 6" of wet heavy snow up on that 58' clear span, and there's going to be a lot of weight up there. I would build my own posts and header rather than relying on that door frame. Click to expand... I'm sure the OP's county has published snow load calculations. I'll wager at least 30psf.

crane operator said: I would avoid making any holes in the roof of the conex. It will leak Click to expand... I do have the lean-to kit for it so there wouldn’t be any weather on top of the box. The roof edge goes all the way to the outside of the container.

Any updates on this? You're building my future shop. Love to see some photos.

I’m embarrassed to say that I’ve completely stalled out on it. The outfit I contract to got some big jobs for 2026 and I’ve been working 90 hrs a week for over a month trying to get equipment ready to go for them. I’m likely going to have to find someone to finish it for me.

My advice would be to do what you do best and hire out the rest. It's the reason we send big repair jobs to a shop - we are a dirt moving company not a mechanic shop. Speaking of - Do you have time to reseal the pivot bar on my 953C? Probably need to both sides at the same time.

When you're a small outfit or O/O it can be really hard to get the stuff you want/need done while trying to look after your customers needs. My hat's off to O/O's that have done it for many years.

Made the call today to hire this job out. Kills me because I’ve always done for myself but I’ve come to terms with the fact that this is outside what my equipment can handle and the risk of injury is just too high for me. Hopefully soon I’ll get to post someone else’s progress on this project.

Any updates ?

Nope just another contractor that has no follow-up on doing the job. Pretty normal these days

Well I set some conexes the other day, and I was just wondering how the shop project was coming along. I gave up on losing sleep worrying about this.