Cat 140M3 steering sensor fault

I have a 140m3 having faults E192-3 and 1473-4.. Im not positive where the steering sensor 3 is located in reference to the 1473-4 fault. I think sensor 3 is actually part of the joystick. Anybody have any info on this ? Please help....

Posting the machine serial number will help the Cat guru's help you

Last 8 of SN. N9D00736

McCanic said: I have a 140m3 having faults E192-3 and 1473-4.. Im not positive where the steering sensor 3 is located in reference to the 1473-4 fault. I think sensor 3 is actually part of the joystick Click to expand... The E192 Event is a consequence of the 1473-3. The #3 sensor is located in the LH joystick assembly. A quick and dirty test is to unplug the 4-pin connector P-C31 for the LH joystick (there are also 2 x 12-pin connectors that you don't need to touch) and then turn the key ON. Does the 1473-3 change to a 1473-4.? I'll send you a copy of the electrical schematic. Check your message inbox.

The fault is actually 1473-4. After unplugging the 4 wire connector and powering the key on, the fault did not change. I plugged it back together and no change either time. There is another machine here with close SN that I can get the joystick from and swapp it out. This left hand joystick cost $4,800.

Nige said: The E192 Event is a consequence of the 1473-3. The #3 sensor is located in the LH joystick assembly. A quick and dirty test is to unplug the 4-pin connector P-C31 for the LH joystick (there are also 2 x 12-pin connectors that you don't need to touch) and then turn the key ON. Does the 1473-3 change to a 1473-4.? I'll send you a copy of the electrical schematic. Check your message inbox. Click to expand... First I disconnected the 4 pin connector and tuned the key on, the fault stayed the same 1473-4. I then removed a joystick from a machine with close serial number and connected it. That went wrong. With the different joystick I had 8 faults present. The hours were also wrong. I assume the different joystick will need linked or calibrated to this machine. Not to sure if it's good or a bad part. I now have the original joystick connected and the faults returned to 1473-4 and the e192 event .

Update, Testing the original joystick at the P-c31 connector. I found 7.9 volts power supply The ground was at k ohms so I removed brown and orange wire and used a jumper direct to batter negative post. The white and red feedback voltage was .3 volts and while swinging the joystick left to right, the voltage was .3 to .1 volts.

Now I have removed the feedback wire from the connector. It is shorted somewhere.???? With it disconnected I get 1 to 5 volts when moving the joystick left to right. Now I have to figure out when they orange wire is going .

McCanic said: The fault is actually 1473-4. Click to expand... Try the attached troubleshooting procedure. It is NOT from a grader so the connector numbers it shows in the illustrations may not correspond with the electrical schematic I sent to you. The wire numbers and colours should all the the same though. McCanic said: Now I have removed the feedback wire from the connector. It is shorted somewhere.???? With it disconnected I get 1 to 5 volts when moving the joystick left to right. Now I have to figure out when they orange wire is going . Click to expand... The electrical schematic should help with that. McCanic said: Testing the original joystick at the P-c31 connector. I found 7.9 volts power supply The ground was at k ohms so I removed brown and orange wire and used a jumper direct to batter negative post. The white and red feedback voltage was .3 volts and while swinging the joystick left to right, the voltage was .3 to .1 volts. Click to expand... Remember the output of the sensor is a PWM signal. To measure it requires a multimeter capable of measure duty cycle in %. The troubleshooting procedure explains in a bit more detail how it functions.

OK great. From what the diagnostic procedure explains versus what I have done, it show the joystick is not the problem. Im going to need to determine why the PWM orange wire is shorted to ground. They have to use the machine for a couple of days so I will have to postpone the repair . Thanks for the help

If you are tracing a short to ground somewhere the most reliable method I have found is not by using a multimeter to measure resistance or continuity, despite what the troubleshooting procedure might say. Instead disconnect any given wire at both ends by unplugging the relevant connectors. Jumper one end of the wire to machine frame ground and then hook the other end to battery+ via a fused 5A test light. Seen many cases of wires that were hanging on by a thread internally that showed continuity but would fail when asked to pass substantial current. There is a possibility that chafed insulation somewhere may be causing the short to ground in the middle of a wire run. In that case you may have to split the wire you are testing into sections to test it. A good visual inspection before you start may just pay dividends. This may give you a few ideas. It turns out the problem all along was a wire shorted to ground but displayed perfect continuity on a multimeter.........