Duetz bf4l 2011f Timing belt teeth

I'm getting my Holder Tractor back together after a truck took off the oil pan, and more, on this Duetz BF4L 1011f and I have a timing belt question. The engine didn't lose the belt, but it's getting replaced. The new belt has 90 teeth and the old one has 91. Cam and crank are locked with pins as per the Internet. Any thoughts on the teeth difference?

Nope doesn't matter...both cam and crank will turn at the same rpm (I realized after I slept on it)

If I can make another comment on my own dumb post, it seems the bf4l that I have and the BF 4m engines are slightly different. For example the locking pin for the cam that I have is from the bf4m was a little too big. The supplier said to file it down so I used some sandpaper for an hour and got it down to the diameter that would fit in the hole. An M oil filter is a little longer. The accessory hydraulic pump drive bracket is slightly different with hydraulic pump mount holes being spaced more widely on the m. The timing cover is the same. The oil pan on this Holder is totally unique with the pan being an integral part of the frame and rear bumper.

Anyone have advice for getting timing belt tension correct without the timing belt gauge? There doesn't seem to be a Duetz one around to buy or rent and it would be a 10-day wait for shipping.

I don't know of any work arounds outside of using a belt tool. I got a used OTC 6673 on eBay. If you need it quick, could always call United or Sunbelt and see if they'd rent you the one out of the tool room for a couple hours.

BrianGrenier said: Anyone have advice for getting timing belt tension correct without the timing belt gauge? There doesn't seem to be a Duetz one around to buy or rent and it would be a 10-day wait for shipping. Click to expand... I did one for a friend a while back. He bought the belt, tensioner, tension tool, all the stuff. After we finished, I saw the technical info on the machine and it said the belt tension deflection should be 10mm. I'm sure it was between furthest points. I recall checking the tension and that's what it was. I recall thinking the tension tool was a waste of money.

Deutz Diesel Engine Timing Belt Replacement Brighteon.com is a leading online free platform that empowers free speech, allowing individuals to freely share videos and express their thoughts without any form of censorship. Join us today and be part of our community. www.brighteon.com How I did it

The new belt has 90 teeth and the old one has 91 This isn't gonna work, the timing will change as it runs until it doesn't. Joe H

Joe H said: The new belt has 90 teeth and the old one has 91 This isn't gonna work, the timing will change as it runs until it doesn't. Joe H Click to expand... Yes, it's essentially a rubber gear. I would want one exactly like what was on it.

BrianGrenier said: Nope doesn't matter...both cam and crank will turn at the same rpm (I realized after I slept on it) Click to expand... You're right. The only difference will be the belt tensioner at a slightly different angle and as the belt wears the valve timing may "creep" a bit more than it would with a 90-tooth belt. Otherwise, no difference.

Nige said: You're right. The only difference will be the belt tensioner at a slightly different angle and as the belt wears the valve timing may "creep" a bit more than it would with a 90-tooth belt. Otherwise, no difference. Click to expand... The pitch, tooth depth and belt height all appear identical. The difference is in the length. What if the belt was significantly shorter, or longer? If you know what I mean...the pitch would be the major factor, and wether the belt can be tensioned, right? If the belt fits over the tensioner, that's how we will roll.

I can't prove it, but I think the valve timing will slowly change as it runs. Joe H

None of the engines I was involved with 40 years ago used rubber timing belts so I don't know, but I did a thought experiment. If you simplify the equation to two gears and a "belt gear" that is a straight line and connects the gears, so long as the pitch of the "belt gear" is correct, the "belt gear" length could be indefinite and nothing would change regarding the timing of the gears. So, the length of the belt or the number of teeth doesn't matter so long as the pitch Is correct. Is my thought experiment correct?

Mike-G said: So, the length of the belt or the number of teeth doesn't matter so long as the pitch Is correct. Click to expand... You are correct. The only thing apart from the tooth pitch which is relevant to the timing is the number of teeth on the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets.

I'm happy to report that the Deutz runs and revs properly and the timing appears good. I think I stated on this thread that the machine was hit and even though it's back together and running it will not locomote. There was a obvious warning on the machine to not weld with the ECM connected but we did not heed that warning and now it's not moving. My thought is to find someone who can work on the ECM as my troubleshooting points to that is the likely culprit. Perhaps I should start a new thread for whom might be able to test and rebuild an ECM? Please advise. The dealer is reaching out to Germany to see if they can rebuild, but they said it could be several days and it's already been one week.

Ah, the old welding on machine without disconnecting the battery and ECM deal! As much as I hate taking the time to disconnect stuff, I have burned up too much stuff.

We got it running When it got hit, the lever on the gas poti was dislocated where the ECM only saw the engine in idle. Putting the lever so it could rotate fixed it and it moves.