Most reliable machines from 20-30 years ago.

Is there a problem with the track adjusters? You could do some oil samples to see what shape they're in. It's not bad to change the fluids but fluids like hydraulic fluid could still be fine to run.

Looks in good shape, for a fair price. Well done! A nice sized machine. We had a Hitachi ZX120 & ZX135 with the Isuzu 4bgt. Quiet, smooth engines; excellent cold weather starters & amazing fuel economy. Good luck with it!

Welder Dave said: Is there a problem with the track adjusters? You could do some oil samples to see what shape they're in. It's not bad to change the fluids but fluids like hydraulic fluid could still be fine to run. Click to expand... He's got the tracks pretty tight. I want to back them off a bit and adjust them to whatever spec is in the manual. Hydro fluid is clean and clear, but dark. Just to be safe I want to get it changed out.

You did very well IMO. Might have missed it but does it have an Isuzu engine? Great little diesels. You sound like me - I change all fluids and filters on a used machine regardless if the oil or filter is brand new. Figure the fluid and filter swap into the price of the machine.

Sounds like a good plan. I think draining as much hydraulic fluid as you can without trying to do a complete flush should be sufficient. That's why I thought testing a sample could give you a good idea how thorough you need to drain the old fluid. If there isn't anything that stands out in the sample, you could just drain the reservoir and replace 70-80% of the fluid instead of trying to get all of it. It is a nice looking excavator.

Anytime I buy a new to me anything, I change all the fluids, sometimes I will skip the anti freeze if it looks good and runs cool enough. What I do also, is all the baby jars that I get, I will from a perfectly clean drain pan, always pour a sample into the baby jars and label them all. That gives me the opportunity to look at it, as it separates, in sunlight and most do to a degree. I have never sent any out for analysis, as that is not the correct way to take the sample. To me it’s just interesting to see what they look like after 6 months, then I generally pour them all into a jug and look at the beautiful colors left over. Just gives me peace of mind. Found a bad transfer case on a Chevy Silverado, that didn’t even know was bad, for 3 months. Jar was full of shavings and noticed it in the drain pan barely as well. Thankfully, found it before winter.

Welder Dave said: Sounds like a good plan. I think draining as much hydraulic fluid as you can without trying to do a complete flush should be sufficient. That's why I thought testing a sample could give you a good idea how thorough you need to drain the old fluid. If there isn't anything that stands out in the sample, you could just drain the reservoir and replace 70-80% of the fluid instead of trying to get all of it. It is a nice looking excavator. Click to expand... I agree. Just draining the tank and getting a new filter will make me feel better. If it isnt clear after like 20 hours I'll run it out about 100 hours and do it again.

Looks pretty clean. I would have wanted to aux flow to the stick and quick coupler, even manual. At that price those things can be added if you want them. I think Kobelco has always built a good machine and you see a ton of those 135's around.

It took two guys, two tanks of gas in the hot water pressure washer, and about 6 hours, but I got most of the sludge blasted out of it. I may have damaged a small hose in the process, so we'll see how that one holds up. All the engine filters will be in tomorrow so I'm going to do the oil and change all those. I'm gonna drain the hydraulic tank and fill it up with fresh fluid. Probably just generic store brand. I typically use NAPA brand, but they're closed tomorrow. Should have the hydraulic filters in by the end of the week. I'm going to do the slew reducer tomorrow too, the oil looks okay, but might as well get everything on the same start to a new schedule. It's calling for GL4 on the sticker, but is it okay to GL5 in that thing? Once I can get it working a bit I'm just going to do my best to look for leaks and change hoses if I can. I don't mind tiny leaks, but seepers annoy me.

How many gallons of hydro oil does it hold? Might be cheaper to by a drum and have some left over.

It's saying about 35 total, 25ish in the tank.

CBMasonry said: It looks like a less capable machine than the SK135, but it's half the hours. Here's the listing if you want to check it out. Facebook www.facebook.com Click to expand... the Cat 312 stick is too short.

I don't think this thing has been pampered like that in awhile. Nothing was overly concerning, but I did a full service on it to restart the clock. It looks like the oil pressure sensor is working fine, it gave me a warning after starting it up with a fresh change and new filters like normal. So that's good to know There was a little bit of rust in the coolant, so I'll probably flush that again in like 40-50 hours. Just waiting on the hydraulic filters to come in, should be here this week. An empty hydraulic tank to the center of the site glass is exactly 25 gallons. I think I'm going to ask my neighbor if he wants any holes dug so I can run it through a good heat cycle working before it goes off the property. All I lack is changing the oil in the final drives and rollers and tensioning the track. The track is too tight, that's all I know. How much sag should I put in it when I back it off and go again?

Do you have an O&M manual? It should show how much slack to have on the tracks. All of my Cat manuals have that procedure in them.

I downloaded the manuals for it, they're huge. I'll have to sift through them.

CBMasonry said: The track is too tight, that's all I know. How much sag should I put in it when I back it off and go again? Click to expand... Just so it sags, it's definitely not rocket science. I'd guess the spec to be around 1.25" to 1.5" between the roller and the idler.

I found it. It wants 10-11" from inside of the shoe to the frame.

Is that with the track frame picked off the ground and measured from the bottom of the track frame to the pad?

CBMasonry said: I found it. It wants 10-11" from inside of the shoe to the frame. Click to expand... I forgot that they quit measuring on top.

John C. said: Is that with the track frame picked off the ground and measured from the bottom of the track frame to the pad? Click to expand... Yeah, measurement at the center roller from inside of the pad to the bottom of the frame.