Power lift for trailer ramps?

Has anyone come up with a power lift system for equipment trailer ramps? I have a 3-axle with the two- pin floating attachment, ramps have braces underneath so pretty heavy for my two ruptured discs. Looking for an alternative to helper springs, and trailer will have a Group 31 battery to power the winch, so maybe something 12V? Like to be able to lift and hold in place to pin the ramps up to struts. Thanks!

I'm guessing you don't have air Can you use the machine you are moving to lift them.

My 50K tag has an electric hydraulic pump working two cylinders on each ramp. It has a battery and a hot wire from the truck. We added it to the trailer years ago and it works great. The pump is located between the frame rails in the beaver tail with metal plate cover. Easy to route the hydro lines to the ramps. You can cobble something up from Northern Tool or similar supply house.

I bought a hydraulic dove tail I will never go back to ramps and since you have pumps you can put a divider in so you can use hydraulic jacks, another thing I choose to never again live without. So if you go with CM1995 keep those things in mind. You can also set it up a wireless remote from KTI

There 4 ways of achieving this so take your pick. 1, electric power pack, 12 or 24 volts to suit the tow vehicle, both cost about the same. 2, gas engine power pack 3, hook into the trucks hydraulics if it's a tipper, 2 hydraulic lines is a must though if you use a separate control valve. 4, pneumatic rams plugged into the trailers air system with a valve to raise or lower the ramps.

smifwal said: I bought a hydraulic dove tail I will never go back to ramps and since you have pumps you can put a divider in so you can use hydraulic jacks, another thing I choose to never again live without. So if you go with CM1995 keep those things in mind. You can also set it up a wireless remote from KTI Click to expand... Let's see some pictures of that trailer. I'm hoping my next trailer will have a hydraulic dove tail.

2021 Diamond C Fatmax 212SS (SS means super single, the dually option didn't get me any more towing capacity the rims are 17's) GVRW 25,900 Weight 7350# Lippert axels, electric over hydraulic disk breaks,jacks and dove tail, wireless remote ,adjustable suspension. Dove tail will lift and carry 10K pounds but you have to be up the dove tail quite a bit, it will not lift my 259D3 if I am not near the peak. I end up getting a full cleat, ( the square bars on the ramp) it came with a section in the middle that was rubber infused wood like on the deck. I couldn't make it up in the snow. Shocker 30k hitch(worth every penny) takes a lot of the bouncing out of the trailer. I router'd out the center section of wood in between the frame and put diamond plate. When I load my post holes digger or my trencher or when I put the dog bone on mini flat I was damaging the trail boards ,and it makes it easier to slide my mini buckets around.

I for got to add 30' 18' flat and 12' dove

If you have air, I think there was pictures here of someone using air bags to lift trailer ramps.

smifwal said: 2021 Diamond C Fatmax 212SS (SS means super single, the dually option didn't get me any more towing capacity the rims are 17's) GVRW 25,900 Weight 7350# Lippert axels, electric over hydraulic disk breaks,jacks and dove tail, wireless remote ,adjustable suspension. Dove tail will lift and carry 10K pounds but you have to be up the dove tail quite a bit, it will not lift my 259D3 if I am not near the peak. I end up getting a full cleat, ( the square bars on the ramp) it came with a section in the middle that was rubber infused wood like on the deck. I couldn't make it up in the snow. Shocker 30k hitch(worth every penny) takes a lot of the bouncing out of the trailer. I router'd out the center section of wood in between the frame and put diamond plate. When I load my post holes digger or my trencher or when I put the dog bone on mini flat I was damaging the trail boards ,and it makes it easier to slide my mini buckets around. Click to expand... Looks nice. Sure is a lot of tail behind the axles though. Somewhere I saw a picture of a dovetail trailer where the last 2 or 3 feet folded back under so that it didn't swing out so far past the axles like a school bus. 30' is too long for a lot of places I typically go. Ideally 24' would be about good for me. 18' flat with 8 or 9' tail, 2-3 of which would fold under.

I haven't seen a trailer like you mention, I got the 30' so I could get 2 machines on it, have not experienced anything negative from the amount of tail past the axels, I have half a (6) 6' concrete blocks 2-2 1/2 of them were back there. I do a fair amount of residential, and the trailer length really hasn't been a issue, so long as the road isn't narrow, there isn't ditches on both sides of the drive, the drive is narrow and isn't a T with the road. I have had times were it wasn't worth the effort to get in but I feel confident that I could have