We're a small landscape contractor who has been slowly building an irrigation division. Last year we installed approximately 50 systems in the course of the season, and early indications are that this volume will continue for the upcoming season. We have used several different vibratory plows for the purpose of installation of the pipe. These have all been walk behind units, and while they work well in some applications, we have found they don't suit our needs. Alot of the work we are doing is in new home construction, and as such, we are installing the systems prior to sod. Where I'm looking for input is if anyone else has experience with vibratory plows, or more specifically Case Maxi-Sneaker C units, as they seem to be better suited to our needs. I'd be interested in other's recomendations. These are now sold under the Astec banner, as the Maxi-Sneaker D, but are quite pricey new. There are several used "C" units out there, but in quite a price range. In addition, if anyone has a lead on the sale of a suitable unit, or a reputable dealer, please let me know!
Case Maxi-Sneaker
Started by GMC Driver13 replies
GMC DriverNew Member#1 backhoe1New Member#2 I spent lots of years running ditch witch 255sx, rented maxi sneakers for big jobs, hated sitting sideways on a machine when I should have been walking. Every time I returned it the salesman would ask how I liked it and I would say "Well, it ain't no ditch witch". I personally would prefer an orange 410.
shaperNew Member#3 GMC DRIVER I used to operate a Maxi-Sneaker for plowing pipe and wire on Golf Course Irrigation jobs. We pulled mostly 2" PVC at a depth of 14-18". In hard compact soils it was tough to get those depths, lots of times on new construction jobs the top 3-4" of soil was loose and the machine would loose traction. For home systems you won't need that much depth, so it shouldn't be a problem For home systems or Athletic fields this machine was ideal. The turf guards do a real nice job of keeping the heaving to a minimum. Hit it with a roller after and you would never know you plowed Not sure what the options are now, but the sneaker I ran had the 4 sets of duals. I have seen some with just singles. Definately look for one with the duals.
gggrahamNew Member#4 Maxi C Our dealership sold a lot of Maxi's over the years until Astec took them over.. They were very simple to maintain and repair. The shaker boxes are so easy to disassemble and repair and tons of them around. Definately get duals if you can they are more stable on a hill. Plus it's easy to remove the duals for a tight area like a residential yard. Kubota engine in the C and not a problem with them at all. Basically the C has not changed much except for the engine and axles since the first Maxi. I have worked on Burkeen and Ditch Witch. Both seem to be fairly reliable as well but I found the Maxi's easier to work on and a lower cost for repairs. If you buy used the first thing I would check are the rubber mounts on the shaker. The shafts and rubbers are "keyed" ( see attached picture) make sure they are in line not sheared. These can be somewhat expensive to replace if you need all 8, and if they are sheared it will not shake properly. Also check for cracks on the shaker tower and frame. Both these symptoms many times are caused by abuse or an inexperienced operator. My 2 cents worth of advise.
GMC DriverNew Member#5 Thanks for your input guys. I found a C with 6oo odd hours on it, but was in NC. I've got transport arranged to get it to PA next month by a really kind gentleman from NC who I'm going to owe a huge thankyou. From his description of the machine we did rather well, so if it is going to require a little PM to get it up to par, that would be fine. Again. your input is appreciated. Once I have possesion of the unit, I may post more details. A bit of a risk site unseen, but I saw it as a can't miss opportunity.
Leon PhelpsNew Member#6 sorry to drum up an old post, but I have a problem with my mini-sneaker. the frame has cracked on the back. Basically part #12 on the photo. I am pretty good fabricating parts. Anyone have success welding the sheared off frame then reinforcing the parts? Also, I see two top bolts that keep the piece on then two lower bolts. If I unbolt, will the piece just drop off? Thanks for any help.
willie59Senior Member#7 I've seen a couple of sneaker frames cracked and had to repair/reinforce them. Taking the unit off is not a piece of cake, you have to pull the side links off of both sides as they fit onto keyed shafts, that's when you may find the key stock on shafts worn and the keyway in side links worn as well. Lastly, you have to disconnect the hyd lift cylinder from the rear frame to free it up.
Leon PhelpsNew Member#8 guess I should start soaking everything with penetrating oil now. thanks. I did see a couple for sale that were already repaired.
remmsouthNew Member#9 I am looking for the shaker box only to a CASE MAXI SNEAKER SERIES C P40 machine, have checked with distributors for new boxes but they are $2000.00 can anyone help with a used one. Or know of any grave yards for these machines where I might could purchase a used one
Hammer103New Member#10 gggraham said: Maxi C Our dealership sold a lot of Maxi's over the years until Astec took them over.. They were very simple to maintain and repair. The shaker boxes are so easy to disassemble and repair and tons of them around. Definately get duals if you can they are more stable on a hill. Plus it's easy to remove the duals for a tight area like a residential yard. Kubota engine in the C and not a problem with them at all. Basically the C has not changed much except for the engine and axles since the first Maxi. I have worked on Burkeen and Ditch Witch. Both seem to be fairly reliable as well but I found the Maxi's easier to work on and a lower cost for repairs. If you buy used the first thing I would check are the rubber mounts on the shaker. The shafts and rubbers are "keyed" ( see attached picture) make sure they are in line not sheared. These can be somewhat expensive to replace if you need all 8, and if they are sheared it will not shake properly. Also check for cracks on the shaker tower and frame. Both these symptoms many times are caused by abuse or an inexperienced operator. My 2 cents worth of advise. Click to expand...
Hammer103New Member#11 I just bought a 2004 Maxi C with 1500 hrs on it and am having the same issues that you describe with the shaker box bushings and key ways worn out. I owned 3 Maxi C machines and never had the problems I am seeing with this one. The machine is shaking it self apart like its having siezures!
jcmarleauNew Member#12 If ever needed i do have a original service manual for sale for the maxi sneaker model for sale. jc marleau
woody28New Member#13 gggraham said: Maxi C Our dealership sold a lot of Maxi's over the years until Astec took them over.. They were very simple to maintain and repair. The shaker boxes are so easy to disassemble and repair and tons of them around. Definately get duals if you can they are more stable on a hill. Plus it's easy to remove the duals for a tight area like a residential yard. Kubota engine in the C and not a problem with them at all. Basically the C has not changed much except for the engine and axles since the first Maxi. I have worked on Burkeen and Ditch Witch. Both seem to be fairly reliable as well but I found the Maxi's easier to work on and a lower cost for repairs. If you buy used the first thing I would check are the rubber mounts on the shaker. The shafts and rubbers are "keyed" ( see attached picture) make sure they are in line not sheared. These can be somewhat expensive to replace if you need all 8, and if they are sheared it will not shake properly. Also check for cracks on the shaker tower and frame. Both these symptoms many times are caused by abuse or an inexperienced operator. My 2 cents worth of advise. Click to expand... How do you go about getting the keys out if you need yo change the bushing? We are having troubles figure that out. One of the bushing pushed through to the inside
Dustin kNew Member#14 How does the plow lift cylinder come apart I have the gland end cap nut off. Is there a clip holding the gland and rod from separating?